Busy hands | Disquiet mind

Today I got a new book, 'Vintage Lingerie, Historical Patterns & Techniques' by Jill Salen. Despite its name it only contains two full projects with instructions; one a bra, and one a petticoat. But it does contain scaled patterns worked from existing pieces presented in the book, that you are left to assemble by yourself. Still, I enjoyed looking through it and am glad to add it to my growing collection of lingerie and underwear books. And it has inspired me to start a plan-of-action. This isn't targeted for any set time-frame, and I don't expect to get through it all in any reasonable amount of time, but it's the way I want to proceed. However long it takes me.

I'm going to leave out modern books and patterns, as well as chemises and panties (which I'll deal with in a more ad-hoc manner), and just focus on the evolution of the bra. As the years pass designs get more convoluted and complicated, so it makes sense to start at the beginning.

1930's: Black Brassiere and Kestos Brassiere, scaled patterns from 'Vintage Lingerie'
1941: Brassiere, description (make own pattern) from 'Sew and Save'
1947: Set of bra tops (four styles) from Simplicity pattern #2026
1949: Bra top (from a pattern also including shorts and a jacket) from Simplicity #2825
1957: Bras (two styles from a pattern also including elongated versions as blouses) from Simplicity #2118

1971: Bra top of bikini (pattern also includes top/dress) from Simplicity #9378
1976: Bra top of a two-piece swimsuit (pattern also includes shirt and pants) from McCalls #5025
1976: Convertible Body Bra, Leisure Bra, Convertible Bandeau Bra, scaled patterns from 'The Undies Book'

Hmm, I'll have to keep an eye out for something from the 60's. As most of these patterns are vintage and in only one size I will make them up as is, not intending for them to fit anyone. Though hopefully Felicity will still be able to model them. (Indeed, as evidenced by the Crepe catastrophe worrying over fit keeps me stuck for a long time, so if after making it up I like the style, only then will I try to resize it to fit me.) This list may grow as I stumble across more patterns, but for now I think it's a fairly decent list to get started on.

Okay, I got the supplies, I did some preparation, only thing left to do was sew them up!



( Knickers and fitting talk )

I'm new to using knits (or, at least, trying to understand knits). And I'm new to underwear. So I'm starting small. With smalls. Kwik Sew's 2100 in fact. And I'm going to go through it in great (probably painful for you) detail.

( Fabric )

( Notions )

( How much stretch? )

I've gone a bit mad, searching for, buying, and longing for all the satin and lace I can find. This is unusual for me as I tend to avoid embellishment as much as possible, and find satin beautiful but impractical.

It has a lot to do with my now pathological desire to make myself underwear that not only fits, but is comfortable. I've been secretly buying up patterns, modern and vintage, finding suppliers, and gathering books. It has been a very slow process, but soon I'll be cutting my first piece of fabric, and am getting very excited. (Can you tell?)

( 'You haven't mentioned this before' )

It is from these starting points that I will be discovering how to make underwear. I hope to share some of my journey with you (though behind cuts, so if this entire topic embarrasses you don't worry). Do you agree, or disagree? Do you have pointers, tips, suggestions, requests? Are you on a similar quest?