![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
![[sticky entry]](//www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/entry/sticky_entry.png)
Sticky: (no subject)
2018-May-08, Tuesday 11:02 pm![[sticky entry]](http://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/entry/sticky_entry.png){kind=small}
Greetings! It is I, your narrator on this inconsistent blog. Normally I just do whatever catches my interest and then write it up here as an external memory stash. But if you would like me to work on anything specifically I welcome your enquiries here. Comments will be screened.
Seamwork Alice tshirt, slightly modded
2018-Jun-21, Thursday 08:45 pmSeamwork's Alice is a long-sleeve tshirt with a high neck, that leans towards layering. The September 2017 issue explains various ways of altering Alice, including shortening the sleeves (I lazily shortened to the patterns shorten/lengthen marking) and lowering the neckline (I lowered it by 3").
I made it up in a lovely plum-purple medium-weight jersey with stretch in one direction. The end result is a bit stiff, would have been better to make this in a two/four-way stretch. It was a straight-forward construction, with my, now, usual overlock stitch/foot on the regular sewing machine to finish the seams. I didn't attempt the double-needle finishes on the sleeves, hem, or neckline this time. Despite lowering the front neckline I still find it a very high/tight neckline. Next time I'll have to look into converting it into more of a scoop-neck like the Rio. Overall it's a good pattern that I look forward to customising more, and this top will be perfect when autumn sets in.
( Back view )
I made it up in a lovely plum-purple medium-weight jersey with stretch in one direction. The end result is a bit stiff, would have been better to make this in a two/four-way stretch. It was a straight-forward construction, with my, now, usual overlock stitch/foot on the regular sewing machine to finish the seams. I didn't attempt the double-needle finishes on the sleeves, hem, or neckline this time. Despite lowering the front neckline I still find it a very high/tight neckline. Next time I'll have to look into converting it into more of a scoop-neck like the Rio. Overall it's a good pattern that I look forward to customising more, and this top will be perfect when autumn sets in.
Finished Alice with half sleeves, neckline lowered by 3", front view
Photo by chebegeek
( Back view )
Gertie Sews Vintage Casual - 40s Style Shirt, sleeveless mod
2018-May-18, Friday 11:40 amMy second project from Gertie Sews Vintage Casual is the 40s Style Shirt. What I like about this book is that for many of the projects variations are given. For instance, this sleeveless version. You are told to add 3" to the hem front and back, and add a fifth button. There are two tucks on both the front and back. You are instructed to turn them into double-ended darts. I did this for the back, and simply left the front tuck- and dart-less. (Except for the the two front shoulder darts.) The patch pocket is left off. As are the sleeves and cuffs. Instead you finish the arms with bias tape.
My fabric is cream with a yellow, green, and blue floral pattern, in 100% non-stretch cotton. I made bias tape from the same fabric. I again got to play with my overedge stitch/foot and buttonhole stitch/foot. The buttons are of a dark blue/navy. The bottom of the side seams are split.
My favourite part was using the bias tape to finish the sleeves. It's so straight forward and neat. One technique I hope to use again. My least favourite part was the very fiddly way the collar and facings were attached. I mean, there was hand-sewing and a tailoring ham. I suppose vintage techniques are part of vintage clothing, but I found it quite frustrating. And I messed up the collar/lapel on the left-hand side because of it. I'm also not sure about the excess fabric on the back above the darts. Is this a vintage feature? Or do I need to elongate my darts? Other than that it's a lovely little pattern, and I'd like to make one in a drapier fabric.
( Photos )
My fabric is cream with a yellow, green, and blue floral pattern, in 100% non-stretch cotton. I made bias tape from the same fabric. I again got to play with my overedge stitch/foot and buttonhole stitch/foot. The buttons are of a dark blue/navy. The bottom of the side seams are split.
My favourite part was using the bias tape to finish the sleeves. It's so straight forward and neat. One technique I hope to use again. My least favourite part was the very fiddly way the collar and facings were attached. I mean, there was hand-sewing and a tailoring ham. I suppose vintage techniques are part of vintage clothing, but I found it quite frustrating. And I messed up the collar/lapel on the left-hand side because of it. I'm also not sure about the excess fabric on the back above the darts. Is this a vintage feature? Or do I need to elongate my darts? Other than that it's a lovely little pattern, and I'd like to make one in a drapier fabric.
Finished 40s Style Shirt, sleeveless modification, front view
Photo by chebegeek
( Photos )
Seamwork Natalie button-up blouse
2018-May-11, Friday 10:20 amSeamwork's Natalie is a casual button-up blouse. It has short sleeves, a soft collar, bust darts, and it doesn't button all the way up to the neck. I am looking for a casual shirt pattern, and sadly this is not it. This pattern is very much a blouse, too feminine for what I'm after. Also, the light blue polycotton fabric I used really doesn't help, except to make it feel like a primary school uniform shirt. (Not my primary school mind, but one with hot weather options and possibly blazers. The kind you'd see in Australian tv shows.)
I did have fun making this though. The entire centre front and neckline is topstitched in one go. And I never had to fight the fabric. There is definitely a joy to sewing with stable non-stretch wovens. The shoulder and side seams need to be finished separately and pressed open, and the facings outer edges also need finishing. So instead of threading up the overlocker I tried out the overlock stitch on my sewing machine, with over-edge sewing foot. It's not as neat as the dedicated machine with blade, but it is very decent. I also figured out the automated buttonhole functionality (stitch with foot/plate)! It took some time, but now I want to put buttons on everything.
( Pictures )
I did have fun making this though. The entire centre front and neckline is topstitched in one go. And I never had to fight the fabric. There is definitely a joy to sewing with stable non-stretch wovens. The shoulder and side seams need to be finished separately and pressed open, and the facings outer edges also need finishing. So instead of threading up the overlocker I tried out the overlock stitch on my sewing machine, with over-edge sewing foot. It's not as neat as the dedicated machine with blade, but it is very decent. I also figured out the automated buttonhole functionality (stitch with foot/plate)! It took some time, but now I want to put buttons on everything.
Finished Natalie, front view
Photo by chebegeek
( Pictures )
Seamwork Aurora knit tank
2018-May-09, Wednesday 03:50 pmSeamwork's Aurora is a knit fabric tank top with some nice details. This had been on my to-do list for a while, but I couldn't remember why it had stayed to-do. Until I started to make it up. It is designed to be made with a coverstitch machine, which I don't have. The alternative method given is a twin ballpoint needle using a stretch stitch, which is something I haven't convinced my machine to do yet. But I'd begun so I carried on. I also hindered myself by using a tissue-weight knit. All in all, the armholes, front neckline, and hem, are not great. But it is still a cute little top, perfect for the hot weather. Next time I would definitely use a heavier fabric though.
( Pictures )
Finished Aurora, front view
Photo by chebegeek
( Pictures )
Seamwork Dana panties
2018-May-04, Friday 10:25 amSeamwork's Dana, I previously made the bralette, now let's look at the panties. They consist of three pieces (including crotch lining), seamed at either side and once through the crotch. One end of the crotch lining is left open. Not my favoured construction technique, but it is common in ready to wear. The waist is narrow elastic turned over, and the legs are simply turned over without elastic. A nice clean, modern, no-visible-elastic aesthetic.
I am happy to report no major fit issues. These are great. They are really comfortable and more short-like (when worn lower on the hip) than the diagrams led me to believe (which is a good thing). I hope to make more.
( Pictures )
I am happy to report no major fit issues. These are great. They are really comfortable and more short-like (when worn lower on the hip) than the diagrams led me to believe (which is a good thing). I hope to make more.
( Pictures )
Seamwork Dana bralette
2018-May-02, Wednesday 01:35 pmSeamwork's Dana is a cute bralette and panties set. This is my first go at the bralette. It is simply two pieces of fabric, with thin elastic at the top, wider elastic at the bottom, turned over. A third piece of elastic and some gathering at the front form a feature. Then two lengths of elastic are attached as straps. Simple. I'd even say that this is a very good bralette pattern to start making your own underwear with.
As usual I had some fit issues. I cut a L(arge), but found the underbust too loose, while at the same time there wasn't enough height to the front. I will make suitable adjustments next time. However it is still quite wearable.
( Pictures )
As usual I had some fit issues. I cut a L(arge), but found the underbust too loose, while at the same time there wasn't enough height to the front. I will make suitable adjustments next time. However it is still quite wearable.
( Pictures )
Charm Patterns Rita Blouse
2018-Apr-27, Friday 04:30 pmGertie combined kickstarter with sewing patterns. I was instantly hooked. I backed the Rita Blouse. An elasticised gathered neckline, almost boho style, on top of a six panelled princess seamed bodice with invisible zipper opening. It even comes with B/C/D/DD cup sizes. And Gertie ran a sew-along on her blog.
I made mine up in a black crepe, which is a tad too translucent, but at least gives me an excuse to make a suitable slip.
I had many fit problems with this pattern. Which I hadn't come across in any of Gertie's previous patterns. I think it mostly has to do with this not really being the right shape/style for me. For one it has a very fitted underbust and midriff. Which is not what my untamed middle likes to do. But I also had to make extensive changes to the back and sleeves.
( Fitting toile )
I'd made up a toile beforehand, and the back piece ballooned out unflatteringly and the sleeves were too loose/long. Seems this was a not-uncommon experience for us more petite lasses. I ended up taking 2" out of the Upper Back, 2" out of each of the Sleeves, and 12" total off the neckline elastic (even adjusting for the 6" of fabric I removed that's still 6" of excess elastic). Ahh, the joys of sewing wovens.
( Finished blouse )
I made mine up in a black crepe, which is a tad too translucent, but at least gives me an excuse to make a suitable slip.
I had many fit problems with this pattern. Which I hadn't come across in any of Gertie's previous patterns. I think it mostly has to do with this not really being the right shape/style for me. For one it has a very fitted underbust and midriff. Which is not what my untamed middle likes to do. But I also had to make extensive changes to the back and sleeves.
( Fitting toile )
I'd made up a toile beforehand, and the back piece ballooned out unflatteringly and the sleeves were too loose/long. Seems this was a not-uncommon experience for us more petite lasses. I ended up taking 2" out of the Upper Back, 2" out of each of the Sleeves, and 12" total off the neckline elastic (even adjusting for the 6" of fabric I removed that's still 6" of excess elastic). Ahh, the joys of sewing wovens.
Finished Rita, front view
Photo by chebegeek
( Finished blouse )
Seamwork Skipper sweatshirt dress mod, with added zipper
2018-Apr-25, Wednesday 01:40 pmSeamwork's Skipper is a nice cozy looking sweatshirt (or as we say, jumper). But it has a members-exclusive hooded dress mod that really caught my attention. Because I wear hoodies, a lot. And I have designs in my head I'd like to see realised. So this was the perfect opportunity to get started.
I made mine in a light grey marl French Terry. I didn't know what this was exactly (my local fabric shops cater more to home/occasion/dance wares), so I ordered it online. When it arrived I learned that it is a lightweight thin hoodie/jumper material.
For my version, I;
- left off the front patch pocket,
- elongated the length of the jumper, but not as much as the dress mod,
- added the side pockets included in the dress mod,
- added the hood included in the dress mod (without the string ties),
- cut the front open and added a double-sided zipper (like here, but because the material is so much lighter I needed to stablise the fabric with fusible knit interfacing first before sewing in the zipper), because how could I not add a zipper to a hoodie called Skipper? (Does this make it a Skippie?)
The length of my hoodie was determined by the length of the double-zipper I could get (28"). Which is almost too short for the pockets (they can peak out below the hem) so I tacked them to the front fabric. I was concerned the neck would be too narrow, or the hood would be too skimpy, as is often the case with purchased hoodies, but no, both are generous. The (three-piece, unlined) hood especially can cover my entire face! It's perfect. The cuffs on the other hand (ha) are a bit snug, but serviceable. I erred on the side of bagginess and as a result it is baggy, almost too big. Will have to try the smaller size next time. But overall, super comfy, and surprisingly warm.
( Also surprisingly difficult to photograph )
I made mine in a light grey marl French Terry. I didn't know what this was exactly (my local fabric shops cater more to home/occasion/dance wares), so I ordered it online. When it arrived I learned that it is a lightweight thin hoodie/jumper material.
For my version, I;
- left off the front patch pocket,
- elongated the length of the jumper, but not as much as the dress mod,
- added the side pockets included in the dress mod,
- added the hood included in the dress mod (without the string ties),
- cut the front open and added a double-sided zipper (like here, but because the material is so much lighter I needed to stablise the fabric with fusible knit interfacing first before sewing in the zipper), because how could I not add a zipper to a hoodie called Skipper? (Does this make it a Skippie?)
The length of my hoodie was determined by the length of the double-zipper I could get (28"). Which is almost too short for the pockets (they can peak out below the hem) so I tacked them to the front fabric. I was concerned the neck would be too narrow, or the hood would be too skimpy, as is often the case with purchased hoodies, but no, both are generous. The (three-piece, unlined) hood especially can cover my entire face! It's perfect. The cuffs on the other hand (ha) are a bit snug, but serviceable. I erred on the side of bagginess and as a result it is baggy, almost too big. Will have to try the smaller size next time. But overall, super comfy, and surprisingly warm.
( Also surprisingly difficult to photograph )
A Study: Book Light
2018-Mar-19, Monday 03:05 pmI wanted to try out a few techniques on a smaller scale;
1. feasibility of the neopixel circuit layout,
2. using conductive thread as traces,
3. light transmission through different fabrics.
And so I ended up with the slightly silly light-up bujo cover/ portable night light.
( Steps )
Much more impressive in a dark room. Coded using FastLED library, OceanColors_p palette, taken from this tutorial.
Conclusions;
1. The circuit layout does work well. But, there is still a looseness to the attachment points (on the boards) that could be improved.
2. I didn't treat the edges of the conductive fabric, and although it frayed very little it did still fray. Treating the edges of the strips would help. I don't think using the conductive fabric over conductive thread was any faster, but it was less fiddly.
3. Diffusion of the neopixels is best achieved through distance from the LEDs and the covering fabric, so designs enforcing this distance would be better.
1. feasibility of the neopixel circuit layout,
2. using conductive thread as traces,
3. light transmission through different fabrics.
And so I ended up with the slightly silly light-up bujo cover/ portable night light.
( Steps )
Much more impressive in a dark room. Coded using FastLED library, OceanColors_p palette, taken from this tutorial.
Cover, front, in dark room
Photo by chebegeek
Conclusions;
1. The circuit layout does work well. But, there is still a looseness to the attachment points (on the boards) that could be improved.
2. I didn't treat the edges of the conductive fabric, and although it frayed very little it did still fray. Treating the edges of the strips would help. I don't think using the conductive fabric over conductive thread was any faster, but it was less fiddly.
3. Diffusion of the neopixels is best achieved through distance from the LEDs and the covering fabric, so designs enforcing this distance would be better.
