Busy hands | Disquiet mind

Short and Sassy square skirt, v.2

Tue, 05 Aug 2025 20:40:04 GMT

Things have been getting complicated around here, I thought to myself. How about making something fast, and fun, to cleanse the palette? Well, I continued thinking to myself, I do have that tricky fabric that I haven't figured out yet. I wonder what can be done with it?

( Details )

Updated waistband, front
Photo by chebe

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Hush-A-Bye jersey camisole, v.2

Wed, 29 Jan 2025 14:50:03 GMT

Base layers. Not the cold weather kind, but the kind that protect you from your clothes, and your clothes from you. Made from a, well, slippy-er, fabric, this could be part of a slip. But as it is, it's just a camisole. Perfect for under tops like shirts, where unruly buttons might cause embarrassment. To reduce a certain degree of clinging, and nuisance bodily fluids. And foiling transparency. But not something I would consider wearing on its own.

( Details )

Hush-A-Bye camisole, finished, front view
Photo by chebe

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Gertie's Ultimate Dress Book - Floral Day Dress modified to v-neck top

Fri, 15 Nov 2024 15:13:37 GMT

I have tried self-drafting basic blocks a few times before. Unfortunately I have not yet found any instructions that actually work for my body proportions. I have, however, gotten fairly competent at altering existing patterns. So how about I try that route instead?

Gertie's Ultimate Dress Book is a course in book form, about learning how to fit the basic blocks of dress patterns (from woven fabrics), and then mix-n-matching for near endless possible combinations. The Floral Day Dress project is the most basic there is; basic bodice, a-line skirt, no sleeves, all-in-one facing. The prefect place to start.

( Details )

V-neck bodice with a-line peplum, finished, front view
Photo by chebe

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The Secrets of Sewing Lingerie; Hush-A-Bye jersey vest and shorts

Wed, 10 Jul 2024 19:17:56 GMT

The Secrets of Sewing Lingerie by Katherine Sheers and Laura Stanford, is lovely little book with a luxurious feel. It goes over the small details often overlooked on how to sew, and decorate, delicate undergarments. To this end it includes a selection of patterns, that come on folded paper, as a pull-out from the book.

( Details )

Hush-A-Bye vest, finished, front view
Photo by chebe

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Gertie Sews Vintage Casual - 40s Style Shirt, sleeveless mod

Thu, 17 May 2018 18:04:29 GMT

My second project from Gertie Sews Vintage Casual is the 40s Style Shirt. What I like about this book is that for many of the projects variations are given. For instance, this sleeveless version. You are told to add 3" to the hem front and back, and add a fifth button. There are two tucks on both the front and back. You are instructed to turn them into double-ended darts. I did this for the back, and simply left the front tuck- and dart-less. (Except for the the two front shoulder darts.) The patch pocket is left off. As are the sleeves and cuffs. Instead you finish the arms with bias tape.

My fabric is cream with a yellow, green, and blue floral pattern, in 100% non-stretch cotton. I made bias tape from the same fabric. I again got to play with my overedge stitch/foot and buttonhole stitch/foot. The buttons are of a dark blue/navy. The bottom of the side seams are split.

My favourite part was using the bias tape to finish the sleeves. It's so straight forward and neat. One technique I hope to use again. My least favourite part was the very fiddly way the collar and facings were attached. I mean, there was hand-sewing and a tailoring ham. I suppose vintage techniques are part of vintage clothing, but I found it quite frustrating. And I messed up the collar/lapel on the left-hand side because of it. I'm also not sure about the excess fabric on the back above the darts. Is this a vintage feature? Or do I need to elongate my darts? Other than that it's a lovely little pattern, and I'd like to make one in a drapier fabric.

Finished 40s Style Shirt, sleeveless modification, front view
Photo by chebe

( Photos )

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Sweet Nothings - Venus Tanga

Sat, 25 Nov 2017 18:47:23 GMT

This Venus Tanga is one of the projects in the Sweet Nothings book. The first project actually. You need to scan a couple of pattern pieces, scale up to 200%, and print.

It is very straight forward; cut two lengths of stretch lace, at an angle to get the v shape. Stitch together. Cut one crotch piece in the lace, and another in a jersey. Stitch on. Add bow, finished. And the result is both pretty and solid.

The crotch looks very small, but seems that that is what is required with this style. I am pleased the crotch is lined, but, the two crotch pieces are initially sewn wrong sides together, leaving raw edges exposed. It really wouldn't take any extra effort to sew the two long edges right sides together, and then turn out to sew the two short edges. And you'd have those seams nicely hidden. I'll make sure to do that myself next time.

Also, you are told to melt the polyester thread to secure. I mean, yeah, sure, but, I think it is the only time any instructions have ever actually instructed me to do that.

( photos )

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Gertie's New Book for Better Sewing - Portrait Blouse

Sun, 22 Oct 2017 14:13:09 GMT

My first project from Gertie's New Book for Better Sewing is the Portrait Blouse. It's also my first woven project in a while.

It involves a lapped zipper, facings, bust darts, and waist tucks (front and back). It also assumes that you know when to finish your seams, so watch out for that. (Especially leaving extra space for the zipper to go in when you trim that seam.) The arms and hem are all narrow turned hems. The facings involve some hand stitching. I used up the last of the Crepe crepe fabric.

Finished Portrait Blouse
Photo by chebe

( Modeled )

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Gertie Sews Vintage Casual - Easy Knit Pencil Skirt

Sun, 22 Oct 2017 13:46:00 GMT

My first project from Gertie Sews Vintage Casual is the Easy Knit Pencil Skirt. The name says it all really. I made mine in a nice dotted Ponte de Roma knit. Sew it up, wear. The length hits about mid/upper shin/calf, and it is so comfortable to wear, but looks so smart. Will have to make more.

Notes;
The book says to use 30mm elastic, but I couldn't find any anywhere. It's either 25mm or 38mm. I used 25mm, it doesn't seem to affect the outcome.

It also says to use a twin needle to hem. Which seems straight forward, but whether it was the fabric or the machine, this just refused to work for me. Used a stretch/lightning stitch instead.

Finished Easy Knit Pencil Skirt
Photo by chebe

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Knickers!; Stretch knickers

Sun, 18 Dec 2016 19:57:55 GMT

With the chalky taste of paracetamol in the back of my throat, there's only a small make this weekend. Or should I say, smalls?

I got a book recently, Knickers!, although 'book' is a bit of an exaggeration. There's a quick intro, and then it's straight in to instructions on how to make six (although three distinct) varieties of knickers. Then in the back there are patterns you need to enlarge 200%, or you can download the fullsize patterns from a website and print them (at 70+ A4 pages). Size charts are in UK dress sizes, not measurements. But otherwise, it is beautifully to-the-point, and very clear.

I used some left-over Fushia jersey, about two metres of black stretch lace, and took on the 'Stretch Knickers' pattern. Start to finish in an hour. I'll definitely be making more.

( Couple of photos )

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Very Basic Beading/Jewellery

Thu, 20 Aug 2015 18:55:22 GMT

I am haphazardly working on projects, and have just replaced my soldering iron, so I should have more to show soon. In the meantime I'm occupying myself with little things that I should already know. Like stringing some beads on some string. This is useful knowledge.

The first method to do this is simply wrapping a length of waxed cotton cord around an item (in the middle of the length of cord). Then passing the two tails through a single bead and knotting them so they don't fall back through. It is really simple, and works well. Except that the cord needs to be long enough to go over your head. And the bead needs to have a wide enough hole to fit the two widths of cord.

Simple single bead necklace fastening
Photo by chebe

To get a shorter necklace the length needs to be adjustable (or to open). Doing this is also really simple, once you've done it once. Take a length of cord in a circle, overlap the ends. Place one of the ends under the cord parallel to it, and then do an overhand (aka regular) knot to itself. Repeat for other tail. (Try it, it makes sense once you see it.) Now it can be long enough to go over your head, and tight enough for a choker style necklace. (And you can use thick nylon cord without having to worry about fitting through any beads.)

Adjustable double-overhand necklace fastening
Medallion by Coral Mallow
Photo by chebe

Next I have to acquire some crimp beads, spiral clasps, and other such fun findings. At least now I can wear my pretties.

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Laundry Bag

Sun, 16 Dec 2012 22:02:26 GMT

I made another bag! The last ones were so small I think I've over-compensated and have gone too much the other way. This one is a laundry bag from a project in 'A Bag for All Reasons'. I deviated a little from the instructions. The two-compartment design wasn't going to suit me; most of my clothing is darks and brights, with a handful of whites/pales/delicates. So I doubled up the internal divider to make a small third section in the middle. For the darks section I chose a black and grey striped fabric, and for the brights a nice colourful printed patchwork fabric. Then at the every end I got lazy, and instead of two parallel lines of stitching 5mm apart I used a twin-needle in one pass. It's mostly straight lines and different sizes of rectangles, which makes the cutting out easier (thank the rotary cutter), but makes the actual sewing rather boring (not even any seam finishes). The end product is approximately 50cm x 60cm, and fully lined. It's quite pretty and ultimately functional, good result!

( Pictures! )

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Bags!

Wed, 26 Sep 2012 13:03:31 GMT

I've started making bags! They're handy things, carrying stuff for you. But it can be hard to find just the right one to fit all your really important stuff properly. Therefore, on occasion, I need to make one myself. I got a book (Sew What! Bags) and started small.

This is the glasses case. Just a few rectangles of fabric sewn together in a tube like shape, fully lined. Handy little thing.

Then I tried the drawstring bag. I've made them before, but it's nice to follow a 'pattern'. The one in the book isn't lined, but I fancied a lined drawstring bag so that's what I did. I got a bit confused with the drawstring channel itself and think I was supposed to turn it to the inside rather than the outside, but hey, learning!

Have a few others in the works. It's nice actually having a use for all that pretty quiliting-weight cotton in the shops. Onwards to more complicated bags!

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Short and Sassy square skirt with yoke, made from measurements

Sun, 04 Dec 2011 14:59:49 GMT

Fourth skirt from the 'Sew What! Skirts' book, Short and Sassy (page 73), a simple square (a.k.a. handkerchief) skirt with elasticated waist. ... Well, almost. I added a yoke. I've added yokes before, but this time I was following the 'very simple low-waist skirt block' (page 134) from Winifred Aldrich's 'Metric Pattern Cutting for Women's Wear'. This particular block is good for easy-fits and fabrics with stretch/elastic waists. The only alteration made to the general instructions from 'Sew What! Skirts' (SWS) was that the circle was measured as my hips, and the waistband left out (as the yoke took care of that).

Construction is very straight forward; sew up the side-seams of the yoke, make the elastic casing, insert elastic. Add yoke to skirt (slight gathering may be needed). Hem.

Okay, ready for the maths? Really pretty simple, promise.

( In theory )

Adding yokes or not is simply another variation you can try. There are also other waistband and closure methods that can be used. There are so many possibilities you can make, and all without buying a single pattern!

( In practice )

There we are. A little light twirly skirt perfect for dancing in. And I've learned a lot about how square and circle skirts are made so I'll be able to make the next one perfectly first time. I'm also loving the yoke block based on Aldrich's block and am looking forward to trying the other blocks.

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V-neck camisole, made from measurements

Wed, 16 Nov 2011 11:26:24 GMT

Went to Craft Night at tog on Tuesday (15th), and actually had a productive evening! I did have to hog a large table, but other than using the floor there isn't any other way to cut out large pattern pieces. In that sew-along news I have all the underlining pieces cut out! Woo! But. I've decided that the fashion fabric, the second one, the purple crepe, is too shiny for this style of dress. *sigh* So I'm again at a standstill until I can find a fabric I'm happy with.

But that's okay, because in the meantime I've wandered off into a short little project; making a camisole.
( Trials and tribulations of construction )

But, for now, Ta-da, done!

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Got No Ties wrap skirt

Mon, 31 Jan 2011 19:17:00 GMT

Third skirt from the 'Sew What! Skirts' book, Got No Ties (page 67), a wrap made from loose-weave fabric. Funnily enough when I first looked through the book this was one of the skirts I was sure I'd never make. I'm not sure why exactly, just have little experience with loose-weave fabrics, so they just seem to be not my thing. But then, I was in Hickeys during the stock-take sale, and found this purple/black/white tweed for only €8/m. It sat there, looking at me, all soft, warm, and purpley. I figured I should at least try the skirt.

Got the fabric home, discovered it's polyester and acrylic, and dry-clean-only. "Nuts to that," I said, and chucked it in a 30-degree wool wash. Put it through the tumble-drier (seemingly losing half of it in the process), and then discovered to my delight not only that it survived but that ironing is not required.

I did up a pattern on paper this time, instead of directly on the fabric. Basic A-line, fitted-waist layout, but no zipper. I made sure to use my low-waist measurement, and while I curved the front waist, left the back waist straight. I also increased the extend/overlap section to 8". I think I settled in the end on a 19" length, which hits me just above my knees. A nice length on me. However, it's extremely hard to photograph.

( Skirt photos )

I didn't have snap tape, so I used two little metal snaps, one on the end of each of the wrap edges, and then secured with a kilt-pin. Then I enjoyed fringing the edges, and now have plenty of material to stuff my next pin-cushion.

I have complained about the clarity of instructions in this book before, and I'm saddened to see that the trend continues. For this skirt they never mention what to do with the waistline, you're left to infer that it's the same as for the hem, yet a close inspection of the photos shows that this isn't true. Other than that though, the instructions are fine.

Okay, I 'fess up. I mostly started this because I'm so unhappy with my sew-along mock-up. I think I'm going to have to make up another one, because simply, I'm not cutting the fashion fabric until I'm happy with the mock-up. So, my apologies to anyone waiting on me to go through the next few steps, it may be a while. Starting in to another mock-up is daunting, and messing with my sewing mojo, so I needed to do something fairly straight-forward that would give me almost instant gratification. That's how this skirt happened. I also have the pieces for a top cut out, but I probably won't get to sewing that up until tomorrow.

Hmm, I feel this skirt needs a pocket or two to give it more interest...

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Passport Cover

Thu, 06 Jan 2011 22:35:35 GMT

Recently in college I studied a paper on RFID tags, which reviewed, poked, and prodded the security of a couple of newer tags. Well, it got me concerned. I pulled out my somewhat dusty copy of 'Switch Craft' and pulled up the project on making passport covers.

( How to )

The idea is that the tin-foil layer will create a Faraday cage around your passport while it's in the holder. There is some conflicting research as to whether thin sheets of metal that close to UHF RFID tags actually dampens the signal, as it does for HF tags, or whether it actually amplifies the signal. Until I get a spare few thousand euros I won't be able to buy the readers and test for myself, so as with most things, buyer beware. I'm not especially worried, but that's because I still have the old pre-RFID passport for a couple more years. Hopefully I'll have this technique perfected by then.

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Cami; stretch lace and first attempts

Fri, 03 Dec 2010 17:56:43 GMT

There are two sewing books I'd like to introduce you to;
( Lingerie books, and a few photos. )

Really, wide stretch lace seems so easy to use, I think I'll stock up!

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Embroidery Sampler Bag

Sat, 25 Sep 2010 15:26:35 GMT

I love books. Most things I learn outside of classes come from books. So naturally when I wanted to refresh all the mad embroidery skillz I'd forgotten I found a book to help me. 'Doodle Stitching' teaches the basics of embroidery, and how to get started. Of all the crafts I do embroidery really requires the least amount of stuff. You have the piece of fabric you're working on, the pattern (and maybe a way to transfer it), embroidery hoop, needles, scissors, and threads. That's it. You can get stuck in quickly, and leave it down quickly, great for those stolen few minutes here and there.

This really is a lovely little book. It focuses on the simple, almost naive, kind of embroidery that's rather popular now and has some nice projects with clear instructions. The first project is very clever. It's a bag for carrying around your embroidery hoops. But, it's also a sampler, and forces you to practice every stitch described in the book. Of course I had to make it!

However, I happened to make the circle too small for the hoop, so I altered the project. I took my circular sampler, and attached it onto a regular square bag (big enough to hold the book as well). I then stuffed the sampler with polyester filling to make it a large pin-cushion. Now it carries everything I need. (I do still have to attach the strap, but otherwise am all done.)

( Embroidery bag pic )

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Beading, 2 Bracelets, 3 Stitches

Mon, 20 Sep 2010 16:37:10 GMT

The beading log I'd hoped to keep didn't work out. Needless to say the last couple of beading posts were a result of my frustration with a certain brand of beads and their inexact sizings. And I'm nothing if not exacting. Noting the other information, like what size needles, thread, and beads go together is helpful, but more something that can be summed up at the end of a project. Like now :)

First up we have the aforementioned Square Stitch[1] bracelet. I didn't like the design in the book[0] so I changed it a little. Inspired by my favourite terminal colours I went for green-on-black, with just two kinds of beads; the green metal-lined rounded cubes, and the plain glossy black seed beads. And because I spend a lot of time typing I've found bracelets can often get in the way or hurt, I want all mine to be as thin as possible. So instead of large round beads I've used flat diamond beads.

The seed beads are size 11, and two fit side-by-side to each of the cubes. Black Nymo thread, size D (0.012" diameter), with size 10 beading needle. You make each panel individually, and then string them together. You start in the middle (with the green beads) then add five rows, then start decreasing by two at each end. Repeat for other side. Make three, and two half panels. String together with the diamond beads, measure for fit, adding extra rows to the two half-panels as needed. Attach 5-bar clasp. (This is all the instruction given in the book. I attempted to Square Stitch it in, but don't think it worked too well. Will have to look up how to do it properly.)

( Pictures )

Second we have a simple little bracelet that uses both Ladder Stitch[2] and Brick Stitch[3], and isn't actually in the book. Black Nymo thread, size D (0.012" diameter), with size 10 beading needle (two needles are needed for doing the clasp). The bugle beads (~6mm) in gunmetal gray are done first in Ladder Stitch to the desired length. Then the black glossy size 11 seed beads are added as a trim. I started at the bobble-clasp end, worked down one end in Brick Stitch, added the loop-clasp end, then worked back up the other end in Brick Stitch.

I like this bracelet, the metallic bugles catch the light and seem to have a thick black outline as if drawn, kinda unusual. Yet it's very light and thin, and was made without any findings.

( References )

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The Breezy Beach Wrap

Sat, 04 Sep 2010 15:10:10 GMT

My second skirt from 'Sew What! Skirts', the so-called Breezy Beach Wrap. I mentioned earlier that I found the instructions hard to follow, and the resultant skirt is not great.

( Here, let me show you. )

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Beaded Lariat

Wed, 25 Aug 2010 18:47:51 GMT

To distract myself from the frustrations of trying to learn beading stitches I found a nice straight-forward project, made simply with basic stringing. Project is the Skull Lariat from The AntiCraft.

I couldn't find any skull beads, so I got Russian Doll beads, that are a bit bigger than the ones in the project. Which had holes too big for the head pins so I had to buffer them with other beads. And I only used six instead of eight. And the large beads I used are smaller than in the project. And mostly, I made the plain seed-bead stretch too short, so my lariat is a choker, or I can wear the strands regular like tied around each other and then it reaches to my waist.

But yeah, if you're making this, don't get impatient like me and make sure the back piece is as long as you want it. Also, doubling up the thread probably would have been a good idea. But otherwise, fun, and quick! I can see myself making a few different variations of this.

( My shorter than expected lariat )

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Beading, from the Beginning

Sat, 21 Aug 2010 20:19:26 GMT

I don't know how it happened, but I've never learned to bead. I have played with metal and wire-wrap jewellery, just never beading. Not even bead-looms, which are apparently things children learn to use the world over. So, I'm endeavouring to correct that oversight. I picked up The Beader's Bible in a local shop (at nearly three times the cost that Amazon has it, eek), and am using it to pick up the basics. It's a beautiful book, lots of helpful tips and instructions. But, there are very few projects, it's more of a reference book to use when other projects don't explain what a specific stitch is, or how to do it. I'm making up projects, making simple chokers and bracelets as a way to practice the various stitches. But progress is slow. Which tends to be the case when learning something new. So I'm going to keep a log of things I try.

( Log )

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You line that up that and ... no, wait....

Wed, 18 Aug 2010 17:45:41 GMT

I mentioned in an earlier post about a book I'm using to make skirts. I'm currently on my second skirt, the 'Breezy Beach Wrap' (wishful thinking), and am finding some of the instructions quite confusing.

Firstly, you have to cut out two pieces that overlap, with right-sides together, that you then sew onto either side of the main(front) piece. Only... when I tried this I ended up with the back edge sewn to one side of the front piece, and the overlap edge of the other back piece sewn to the other side of the front. I should be okay because my pattern is non-directional, but I am still worried about the lines of the skirt lining up right.

Secondly, it says to sew the two strips of waistband together (on the short edge as far as I can make out) to create one much larger strip. Except, now I'm left with a strip of fabric that seems way, way too long.

So I went looking for any possible errata that were published. There are at least three versions of this book. The first one was published through Storey Publishing in the States. They seemingly put up errata (which have since disappeared) and republished a corrected version in 2006. My copy of the book was published in 2007, by UK publishers David&Charles, and still contains the mistakes. With no errata I could find on their website.

For those interested, here is what the errata pdf contained once upon a time:

Sew What? Skirts
Page 65 Half Circle Wrap:
All you need is 1 length of 42"–45" fabric (about 2 1⁄2 yards for the average person), plus 1⁄8 yard for the waistband and ties. If you are larger than average, or prefer a fuller skirt, it’s better to use fabric that is 58"–60" wide (about 3 1⁄2 yards, plus waistband yardage).
. . .
You will need to add to the W measurement to allow
for fabric overlap in the back of the skirt. To do this, measure where your waistline will be, then add 12" to 14" (or the amount you want it to overlap). Divide by 3 and round up to the nearest 1⁄2". Then make your string compass as instructed.

p. 117 Nature's Child:
under Stuff You Need it should read:
2 lengths* of 42"–45" fabric
3⁄4–1 yard of complementary fabric

No mention of any of the problems I'm having, so maybe it's just me... but I'd be interested to hear thoughts from anyone who has tried these projects.

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Adventures in Sewing

Fri, 07 May 2010 18:07:49 GMT

I made a skirt yesterday. One from the book 'Sew What! Skirts'. I'm not sure if I mentioned this book here before or not, but I like it, and recommend it, even if none of it is metric, and it says you need a sewing machine. It basically teaches you how to make skirts to fit you, without patterns. It involves a little bit of maths, and some rulers, and really what you are doing is drafting your own skirt blocks, for one time use only, directly on the fabric. I made the first skirt, called 'Singing the Blues', a drawstring A-line skirt, only I didn't add the pocket or the rickrack.

It took me about four hours, including re-threading my overlocker, and learning how to sew a buttonhole on my machine. I ended up making the skirt a bit too big (I have to stop rounding up my measurements!), but I think it still works in a Summery kind of way. I actually wasn't too sure about the fabric, it's floral, and reminds me of Hawaiian shirts. Yet the colours are striking and bold, and the flowers themselves remind me of blood-red splashes. It's certainly not the sort of pattern I'm used to wearing. But it is a medium-weight cotton, and the selection was poor.

I wore it to work today. That was quite a bold move for me. I have never worn anything I made myself out-of-doors, except costumes. I suffer from thinking that nothing I can do is good enough, for whatever that means. But I did, and received several compliments on it, none of which were 'Did you make that yourself?'. I aim for a handmade look, not homemade. And, I say this with relief, I think this a step in the right direction.

( Photo behind cut )

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