Busy hands | Disquiet mind

Self-drafted Half-Circle skirt, v.3

Mon, 02 Feb 2026 23:25:13 GMT

So I made another half-circle skirt, identical to v.1 and v.2, but in a 100% polyester micro-velvet. It's a soft, plush, non-stretch, deep black (when not over-exposed) velvet. I had high hopes for this fabric. The first issue is that it comes in a narrow width, so I could only fit the pattern pieces in one orientation, and actually had to go buy a second longer length to fit them. Also, the twice turned hem turned out thicker than ideal. But mostly this fabric is a static electricity/cling nightmare. And the (half) fullness of this skirt means the fabric is constantly rubbing against itself. I have bought a slip, and ordered a petticoat, to see if they can make this more wearable. But needless to say I have scrapped the other projects I had in mind for this fabric.

Finished, front
Photo by chebe

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Named Saana puffer vest

Tue, 09 Dec 2025 19:18:59 GMT

Named's Saana is a puffer vest/gilet, but the sides are completely open, facilitating the wearing of dolman-type sleeves while staying cozy.

( Details )

Finished, front
Photo by chebe

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Seamwork Lex jumper (aka sweatshirt), v.4

Mon, 08 Dec 2025 21:59:11 GMT

Time for something practical. Let's make another Seamwork's Lex jumper!

( Details )

Finished, front
Photo by chebe

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VikiSews Miley bodysuit

Tue, 21 Oct 2025 17:40:49 GMT

VikiSews Miley is a bodysuit pattern with an interesting neckline. I bought this pattern from a UK seller, only to find out that it's from a Russian company, which was not a pleasant surprise. I'm not linking. Because we support Ukraine on this blog. But seeing as they already had my money I might as well get use from it.

( Details )

Finished, front
Photo by chebe

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Self-drafted Half-Circle skirt, v.2

Sun, 05 Oct 2025 12:01:13 GMT

So I made another half-circle skirt, identical to v.1, but in Luxury Crepe Black Dress Fabric (100% polyester). To pair with my Vogue V1869, asymmetric top. Are we seeing the vision? The plan is to create a flexible collection of fancy occasion separates, that can be mixed and matched. And few things are as versatile as a simple black skirt.

Last Friday I went to Dublin Frocktails 2025, my first Frocktails. I, uh, didn't get any photos, because I'm bad at this. So you'll have to imagine how the two pieces went together. (The skirt is shorter than the lowest point of the top, and the crepe had an amazing lustre under the venue lighting.) It was a fun event, and was great to see so much creativity, and skill, and excellent taste in patterns and fabrics. I hope to be not so exhausted next time, and maybe even get to socialise a bit.

Finished, front
Photo by chebe

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Colette Myrtle, v.2, as a woven top

Sun, 05 Oct 2025 11:55:12 GMT

Colette's Myrtle is a knit dress pattern that is supposed to work in a woven fabric too. Let's test that.

I'm cutting the same size L as the knit v.1, but just the top Front and Back pieces, not the skirt. There are special woven instructions, that have you finish the back armholes and neckline with bias binding, and have you fold the waistband casing up (instead of down) to cover the elastic. But I'm forging my own path here.

( Details )

Finished, front
Photo by chebe

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Seamwork Riley woven top

Sun, 05 Oct 2025 11:52:36 GMT

Seamwork's Riley is a simple sleeveless woven top pattern. With a high neck, and self-fabric ties at the waist. Just a front piece, with bust darts, and a back piece. Bias tape facings. No closures.

( Details )

Finished, front
Photo by chebe

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McCall's M856 (2024), view a, denim shorts

Sun, 05 Oct 2025 11:39:11 GMT

McCall's M8536 is a pattern for awesome looking wide legged jeans. The only catch is that it is a mens pattern. But why would we let that stop us?

( Details )

Finished, front
Photo by chebe

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Self-drafted Half-Circle skirt

Sun, 05 Oct 2025 11:27:28 GMT

I'm back to self-drafting skirts again. I haven't been completely satisfied with the instructions given in the Sew What Skirts book, so I did a bunch of research around the internet and came up with my own process that works for my brain.

( Details )

Finished, front
Photo by chebe

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Seamwork Chip knit jacket, v.2

Tue, 30 Sep 2025 13:42:25 GMT

When I made Seamwork's Chip, a moto-style cardi-jacket, last time a few things went quite wrong. So, eh, let's try again?

( Details )

Finished, front, half zipped closed
Photo by chebe

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Vogue V1944 (2023), view b, oversized shirt, v.2

Tue, 23 Sep 2025 17:02:31 GMT

I loved v.1 so much that I made another one! Everything is the same, except I overlocked/serged the raw edges before doing the clean seam finishes. And feel I managed most things more neatly the second time around.

( Details )

Finished, front
Photo by chebe

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Colette Myrtle knit dress

Mon, 15 Sep 2025 17:39:14 GMT

Colette's Myrtle is a discontinued dress pattern from Seamwork. This copy is actually so old I have it on factory tissue in a paper booklet. Despite that this is my first time making it up. The pattern can be made in either wovens or knits, but for a first go knits are usually safer. It's a sleeveless dress, with cowl front neckline, elasticated waist, and slightly a-line slightly gathered skirt. It has two length options, and I'm going with the shorter one. This version has an optional strap that functions almost like epaulets, but we'll get to them in a moment.

( Details )

Finished, front
Photo by chebe

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Project Alteration; jumper

Tue, 12 Aug 2025 21:25:21 GMT

Keeping on the simpler projects train. I had this very 90s fuzzy jumper, that I never wore, because the neck was too high and too tight over the head. In an effort to get some wear out of it, I fitted a zipper.

( Details )

Finished, open, front
Photo by chebe

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Vogue V1944 (2023), view b, oversized shirt

Tue, 08 Jul 2025 22:02:11 GMT

Vogue V1944 is, well, I'm not sure how to describe it. It's a strange woven collection of bias cut skirt, with two dropped shoulder shirt-inspired top options, one both fitted and cropped. I was interested in view b; the boxy oversized shirt.

But being a Vogue pattern, sizing is not straight forward. The measurements corresponding to the sizes are only shown on the envelope flap (not visible in the online envelope scans), and the useful finished garment measurements are typically only to be found on the pattern tissue itself. Being at the edges of the size range is quite risky. Last time I made a Vogue, I found the sizing ran large, and that a size 22 was the better starting point for me. Which is just as well, as size 22 is the maximum size available for this pattern. A size 22 is given as bust 112cm, waist 94cm. This would not fit me. But I'm looking at a boxy oversized shirt. So, I took the gamble. Turns out the finished garment measurements for view b are bust 132cm, waist 128cm. This is 20cm and 34cm of combined wearing and style ease. That should be plenty.

( Details )

Finished, front
Photo by chebe

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Seamwork Elmira cropped wrap cardigan, v.3

Mon, 30 Jun 2025 20:00:11 GMT

Seamwork's Elmira, cropped cardigan, again. I like v.2, but let's make it more. Firstly, downsizing to the XL. (Third time tracing out this pattern.)

Secondly, let's colour block! Measure the centre-back, divide in three. Mark similar measurements at all the side seams. Notice how they don't line up, and rough out some compromise with gently curved lines. Trace out (for the fourth time) the colour blocked pattern pieces with seam allowances. Shorten the sleeve length to better fit the visual balance. Lengthen the cuff piece to fit.

( Details )

Finished, front
Photo by chebe

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Seamwork Elmira cropped wrap cardigan, v.2

Mon, 23 Jun 2025 22:46:39 GMT

Seamwork's Elmira is a close fitting, cropped cardigan, in a ballet wrap style. I have previously made the front-tie variation, but didn't like the (lack of) front coverage. On top of having made v.1 in only a size L, and with a knit fabric with insufficient stretch, it wasn't comfortable to wear.

Coming back to the base pattern, I wasn't vibing with the bulk of the wraps, nor the excessive amount of fabric that goes into them. Then I noticed that the inner layer is kept closed with two buttons and button loops, and resolved to have both sides close in the same way, eliminating all ties. And this time in a size 2X.

( Details )

Finished, front
Photo by chebe

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Megan Nielsen Tania culottes, view D, v.2

Sat, 31 May 2025 22:25:09 GMT

We're making Megan Nielsen's Tania culottes, view D, again (v.1 here).

But this time we'll make them to actually fit as intended, high waisted and everything. To solve the between sizes issue we'll use Curve size 20 for the front, and size 22 for the back, to the length of the size 20.

We'll be using a bright purple linen, Gütermann thread colour 392. And we'll need an invisible zipper (in black) for the side seam, cotton stay tape to reinforce the pockets, and stiff fusible interfacing for the waistband.

And that's it really. Started by overlocking the raw edges, and it sewed up very quickly. This fabric takes a press very well, so the super narrow hem came out lovely. The missing pleat marking on my pattern did trip me up again, momentarily.

These are delightful in hot weather. I'm still not sold on high waists in general, but can admit it does work lovely here. The swish, the colour, the in-seam, so far so good.

Finished, front
Photo by chebe

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Me Made May 2025

Thu, 29 May 2025 13:29:57 GMT

Another MeMadeMay has come and gone. It was an especially hot May around here. I usually prefer clothing for layering, and when I have to not do that I find it difficult to convey personality with a minimal number of items. I did at least try to incorporate more of my makes, trying new combinations, styles. To variable success. But I'm skipping ahead, first the pledge;

"I, chebe, pledge to wear at least one me-made/-repaired/-altered item each day throughout May 2025.
I also pledge to prioritise finishing my in-progress alterations and repairs."

Previous years; 2021, 2023, 2024.

( 1st - 4th )

( 5th - 11th )

( 12th - 18th )

( 19th - 25th )

( 26th - 31st )

Conclusions? I managed all but two days this year. These were days when I just couldn't anything. I'll forgive myself. Let's analyse.

( data )

So I need to make more short sleeve t-shirts, joggers, trousers, and vest tops. Also felt a lack of layering pieces by way of loose shirts and light cardigans (smart and casual), and I just want jeans (still working up to it). I also seem to have worked my way back to preferring slightly more fitted clothing again. Tenting t-shirts and tops will no longer be tolerated. Which is an issue with my Seamwork loyalty. Their style tends to be more 'modern' with a-line tops. And it just doesn't work well for me. But some of this can be mitigated by favouring fabrics with more drape.

On the other side, I got through about half my mending backlog, and all my non-t-shirt alterations (including some for relatives). And I only made two new items this month, which have been on the to-do list for a while. All in all, calling this a success.

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Project Alteration; playsuit

Sun, 25 May 2025 22:33:39 GMT

One day, some time ago, I found myself in London, on a rather hot day, failing to find the shop I was looking for. I popped into a second-hand shop, for a little respite. And stumbled upon this unusual item that seemed like a cross between a playsuit and a jumpsuit. An item I would not normally wear. But the print of the fabric called to me. And the prospect of expanding my warm weather wardrobe seemed like a rather urgent one. I tried to try it on, but failed. The waistband, that looks like it's shirred, is actually not stretchy at all. The width of the item seemed to fit me, but I couldn't get into it to check. I figured I just needed to put in a zip, and bought it.

( Details )

Finished, front
Photo by chebe

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McCall's M8479 (2024), view b, v.2

Sat, 17 May 2025 15:50:14 GMT

McCall's M8479, woven short skirt pattern with faux-wrap options. I previously made the 'base' skirt, without any of the wrap options; v.1. Now it's time to wrap.

( Details )

McCall's M8479, view b, finished, front view with wrap closed
Photo by chebe

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Project Alteration; dungarees

Thu, 08 May 2025 13:00:05 GMT

The problem with focussing on repairs and alterations is that there is rarely anything significant enough to blog about. But I'll try and highlight the pieces that involve a bit more work as they happen.

Like these dungarees shorts. ( Details )

Altered dungarees with additional side seam width
Photo by chebe

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McCall's M8479 (2024), base skirt

Tue, 11 Feb 2025 14:31:51 GMT

McCall's M8479 is a woven short skirt pattern with faux-wrap options. I was having a hard time understanding how all the pieces went together, so I made a 'base' version of the skirt with the most common pieces and without any of the wrap choices, which isn't technically an option provided. It is closest to View A, but without the over-wrap half skirt (read on for explanation of this).

But first, why a skirt pattern? Well, simply, I need basic/versatile skirt options to fill a gap in my wardrobe. And this skirt pattern has a fly front zipper, which I haven't tried before. Skirts use less material even than shorts, so it's a lower stakes way to practice. And I really couldn't figure out what they were doing, without examining the pattern pieces closely. Curiosity, basically.

( Details )

McCall's M8479, finished, front view
Photo by chebe

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Hush-A-Bye jersey camisole, v.2

Wed, 29 Jan 2025 14:50:03 GMT

Base layers. Not the cold weather kind, but the kind that protect you from your clothes, and your clothes from you. Made from a, well, slippy-er, fabric, this could be part of a slip. But as it is, it's just a camisole. Perfect for under tops like shirts, where unruly buttons might cause embarrassment. To reduce a certain degree of clinging, and nuisance bodily fluids. And foiling transparency. But not something I would consider wearing on its own.

( Details )

Hush-A-Bye camisole, finished, front view
Photo by chebe

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Butterick B6287 (2015), view D, knit tunic

Sun, 24 Nov 2024 17:54:18 GMT

To refresh, receiving Butterick B6287 was a surprise, as it was used as the packing material in an order, and was not actually part of my order. But I enjoy a good puzzle so I made view C; a knit tunic with diagonal pieced front and back sections with a raw hem. But now I want to make view D, which is the version with the complete/regular hem, sleeves, and no cowl.

( Details )

Butterick B6287, finished, front view
Photo by chebe

(The sewing area has been packed away, so probably won't be any more sewing projects until the New Year.)

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Gertie's Ultimate Dress Book - Floral Day Dress modified to v-neck top

Fri, 15 Nov 2024 15:13:37 GMT

I have tried self-drafting basic blocks a few times before. Unfortunately I have not yet found any instructions that actually work for my body proportions. I have, however, gotten fairly competent at altering existing patterns. So how about I try that route instead?

Gertie's Ultimate Dress Book is a course in book form, about learning how to fit the basic blocks of dress patterns (from woven fabrics), and then mix-n-matching for near endless possible combinations. The Floral Day Dress project is the most basic there is; basic bodice, a-line skirt, no sleeves, all-in-one facing. The prefect place to start.

( Details )

V-neck bodice with a-line peplum, finished, front view
Photo by chebe

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