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Music From Outer Space Noise Toaster
I made up the SynthCube MFOS Noise Toaster kit! (You can blame LOOK MUM NO COMPUTER.) The project page should be this project link but it seems to be down a lot, so here's a WayBackMachine cache.
This is not a beginners project. There is a lot of assumed knowledge. There is a book, to help fill in some of the background, but electronics and enclosures familiarity is still assumed. As well as plenty of tools at hand. It's also not a quick win, there are a few days of slog involved for the uninitiated. But, with determination it is still very approachable!
The first thing you need to know is that the project page and the book provide different views, and some different information, so I found I needed to use both. But they don't always agree. I'll flag the bits I found under-explained and/or confusing.
Also, the website details some modifications, but the kit does not come with the parts for them. (Though they do look cool, I might try them in future.)
The enclosure isn't part of the original project at all, though it gives you tips on building your own. But if you get the one with the kit, like I did, here are some points.
- The finished device is powered by a 9V battery. The kit comes with two power connectors; a 9V battery snap (with bare leads for soldering into the circuit), and a regular centre-positive barrel jack (without leads). I decided to go with the barrel jack, so I have the option of using mains or a battery, without having to open up the enclosure. (I use this kind of thing with the battery option; 9V to barrel jack. You also need to supply your own 9V battery.)
The provided power socket has three terminals, including a switch pin which is unconnected when a jack is plugged in. I wired in to the negative and positive terminals only.
- The smallest two screws and hex nuts (~M2.5) are for the battery holder.
- The next smallest four screws and hex nuts (~M3) are for the speaker.
- The big black screws, with no matching nuts, are for attaching the faceplate to the case. (They're a tight fit, which seems to be what keeps it together.)
- The holes in the faceplate and the case don't line up in every orientation. The speaker and grill, go on the bottom left. The power socket goes on the top left.
- The remaining four screws and two standoffs (~M3) are used for bolting the PCB to the faceplate.
Note: Five components are used on the faceplate, do not get freaked out that they're left over when you're done with the PCB;
R43 (27K 1/4W 5% resistor)
D2 (1N914 diode)
D3 (1N914 diode)
C17 (1uF non-polarized aluminum capacitor)
LED1 (General purpose LED)
- The main issue with the PCB is the case of R56;
The original design called for R56 to be 75K. This is included in the kit in the package 'R2, R56, 75Kohm'. But the design was revised to use a 20K resistor instead (this is the version in the book). This is included in the kit as 'R68, R65, 20Kohm'. But it's not R65 (that is a 3Kohm resistor), it's the new R56. It's marked on the parts list as 'R65 OPTION', but we now know it's the new R56. Which is to say, at the end of all this, you'll have one resistor left over, whichever one you choose to use. (This is detailed in the 'Optional Value Change Advisory' on the project page.)
- The 1/4" jack schematics differ too, but the project page tells you to test your jack, and it ends up matching the books version.
- One thing to call out, is the way they rig up the LED. Take a small piece of perf board (or as I did the old LilyPad blank LED protoboards) and some double-sided sticky foam/gel tape, and stop the LED from protruding on the outside too much.
- This takes longer than you think it will. It's a case of twisting wire to all the terminals marked in the diagrams. You'll need small pliers. Solder nothing until you've wired all the connections. First wire up all the faceplate component connections, then the wires destined for the PCB. Then finally the wires on the PCB. Double-check everything. Solder.
The PCB bolts on to the back of the faceplate. I didn't realise until after I'd cut all my wires, but the idea seems to be that the board opens away from the faceplate like opening a book (to the right). So the wires should be long enough to all wrap around one edge of the PCB. Which will be helpful for access if there are any mods you want to make in future.
Don't forget to wire the enclosure speaker and power leads to your faceplate and PCB!
After you've gone through the tests detailed in the book, it's time to seal it up. If you're using the kit enclosure be weary of that lip. There is a border all around the edge of the faceplate where no wires can be allowed reside, or you won't be able to close the case. Hopefully you can nudge the wires out of the way without damaging anything.
But what kind of noise does it make? It's an analog synth. With mono output. (But the only way I have to transmit a recording to you is digital.) The only reliable sound I can manage is wind, gusty, on an open, desolate plain. But I tried flicking switches and twirling knobs as well to give you an idea of the possibilities. Here you go, feel free to jump around through it, it's not a tune or anything.
Recording of some of the sounds possible with the Noise Toaster
Video by![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png)
chebe
This is not a beginners project. There is a lot of assumed knowledge. There is a book, to help fill in some of the background, but electronics and enclosures familiarity is still assumed. As well as plenty of tools at hand. It's also not a quick win, there are a few days of slog involved for the uninitiated. But, with determination it is still very approachable!
The first thing you need to know is that the project page and the book provide different views, and some different information, so I found I needed to use both. But they don't always agree. I'll flag the bits I found under-explained and/or confusing.
Also, the website details some modifications, but the kit does not come with the parts for them. (Though they do look cool, I might try them in future.)
The enclosure
The enclosure isn't part of the original project at all, though it gives you tips on building your own. But if you get the one with the kit, like I did, here are some points.
- The finished device is powered by a 9V battery. The kit comes with two power connectors; a 9V battery snap (with bare leads for soldering into the circuit), and a regular centre-positive barrel jack (without leads). I decided to go with the barrel jack, so I have the option of using mains or a battery, without having to open up the enclosure. (I use this kind of thing with the battery option; 9V to barrel jack. You also need to supply your own 9V battery.)
The provided power socket has three terminals, including a switch pin which is unconnected when a jack is plugged in. I wired in to the negative and positive terminals only.
Power barrel jack wiring
Photo by chebe
- The smallest two screws and hex nuts (~M2.5) are for the battery holder.
- The next smallest four screws and hex nuts (~M3) are for the speaker.
- The big black screws, with no matching nuts, are for attaching the faceplate to the case. (They're a tight fit, which seems to be what keeps it together.)
- The holes in the faceplate and the case don't line up in every orientation. The speaker and grill, go on the bottom left. The power socket goes on the top left.
- The remaining four screws and two standoffs (~M3) are used for bolting the PCB to the faceplate.
Enclosure arrangement with speaker and power jack
Photo by chebe
The PCB
Note: Five components are used on the faceplate, do not get freaked out that they're left over when you're done with the PCB;
R43 (27K 1/4W 5% resistor)
D2 (1N914 diode)
D3 (1N914 diode)
C17 (1uF non-polarized aluminum capacitor)
LED1 (General purpose LED)
- The main issue with the PCB is the case of R56;
The original design called for R56 to be 75K. This is included in the kit in the package 'R2, R56, 75Kohm'. But the design was revised to use a 20K resistor instead (this is the version in the book). This is included in the kit as 'R68, R65, 20Kohm'. But it's not R65 (that is a 3Kohm resistor), it's the new R56. It's marked on the parts list as 'R65 OPTION', but we now know it's the new R56. Which is to say, at the end of all this, you'll have one resistor left over, whichever one you choose to use. (This is detailed in the 'Optional Value Change Advisory' on the project page.)
- The 1/4" jack schematics differ too, but the project page tells you to test your jack, and it ends up matching the books version.
The faceplate
- One thing to call out, is the way they rig up the LED. Take a small piece of perf board (or as I did the old LilyPad blank LED protoboards) and some double-sided sticky foam/gel tape, and stop the LED from protruding on the outside too much.
- This takes longer than you think it will. It's a case of twisting wire to all the terminals marked in the diagrams. You'll need small pliers. Solder nothing until you've wired all the connections. First wire up all the faceplate component connections, then the wires destined for the PCB. Then finally the wires on the PCB. Double-check everything. Solder.
Wiring of components at back of faceplate
Photo by chebe
The PCB bolts on to the back of the faceplate. I didn't realise until after I'd cut all my wires, but the idea seems to be that the board opens away from the faceplate like opening a book (to the right). So the wires should be long enough to all wrap around one edge of the PCB. Which will be helpful for access if there are any mods you want to make in future.
Wiring of PCB to back of faceplate
Photo by chebe
Final assembly
Don't forget to wire the enclosure speaker and power leads to your faceplate and PCB!
After you've gone through the tests detailed in the book, it's time to seal it up. If you're using the kit enclosure be weary of that lip. There is a border all around the edge of the faceplate where no wires can be allowed reside, or you won't be able to close the case. Hopefully you can nudge the wires out of the way without damaging anything.
Finished Noise Toaster, front
Photo by chebe
Finished Noise Toaster, back
Photo by chebe
Finished Music from Outer Space Noise Toaster, toaster style
Photo by chebe
But what kind of noise does it make? It's an analog synth. With mono output. (But the only way I have to transmit a recording to you is digital.) The only reliable sound I can manage is wind, gusty, on an open, desolate plain. But I tried flicking switches and twirling knobs as well to give you an idea of the possibilities. Here you go, feel free to jump around through it, it's not a tune or anything.
Recording of some of the sounds possible with the Noise Toaster
Video by
chebe