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George + Ginger Everlong trousers
George + Ginger's Everlong are unlined woven trousers, with pockets, a 8" regular side-zipper, tucks in front, and darts in back. The pattern very helpfully has registration marks to help you grade between sizes at multiple points through the legs.
From pattern measurements it looked like I was going to need a 3X in the waist, and a 5X in the calves. It also looked like I should have gone down to a 2X through the hips, but for simplicity I skipped that. I made up one toile, and was shocked to find it worked pretty well. I added ~3.5" to the length, which is only needed because it turns out this is a cropped trouser pattern. I moved the back darts in closer to the centre, 5cm from the centre-back seam, and lengthened the darts by 1". I shortened the tucks in the front to 2". And had at in the fashion fabric.
I used plain cotton twill, in black, (100% cotton), 240 g/m2, double-stitched the in-seams, and side-seams. I don't think I've inserted a zipper like this before. You baste-stitch the side-seam closed, place the zip on the inside, and stitch in place, before removing the basting stitches. It worked a treat, but, strange to me. Possibly because there is no button, not even an eye-and-hook, above the zip. That's living dangerously.
After wearing them for a long day, the pockets need to be made bigger. They are pockets for perching hands, not holding stuff. I think I will split the back darts in two, to try and reduce pointy-butt syndrome. I am surprised by how much extra fabric there is in the calves, despite this being a considered measurement. At first wear, as the waistband creased through the long day, the zipper did have a hard time staying closed. I added an adjustable trouser bar on a little tab I inserted above the zip (on the inside). Which holds them up, but is still quite loose. Did these stretch in the wash?! I think I could go down a size, or two. Will probably cut a straight 2X next time. But damn if these weren't a pair of wearable trousers with very little fussing. Achievement unlocked.
From pattern measurements it looked like I was going to need a 3X in the waist, and a 5X in the calves. It also looked like I should have gone down to a 2X through the hips, but for simplicity I skipped that. I made up one toile, and was shocked to find it worked pretty well. I added ~3.5" to the length, which is only needed because it turns out this is a cropped trouser pattern. I moved the back darts in closer to the centre, 5cm from the centre-back seam, and lengthened the darts by 1". I shortened the tucks in the front to 2". And had at in the fashion fabric.
I used plain cotton twill, in black, (100% cotton), 240 g/m2, double-stitched the in-seams, and side-seams. I don't think I've inserted a zipper like this before. You baste-stitch the side-seam closed, place the zip on the inside, and stitch in place, before removing the basting stitches. It worked a treat, but, strange to me. Possibly because there is no button, not even an eye-and-hook, above the zip. That's living dangerously.
After wearing them for a long day, the pockets need to be made bigger. They are pockets for perching hands, not holding stuff. I think I will split the back darts in two, to try and reduce pointy-butt syndrome. I am surprised by how much extra fabric there is in the calves, despite this being a considered measurement. At first wear, as the waistband creased through the long day, the zipper did have a hard time staying closed. I added an adjustable trouser bar on a little tab I inserted above the zip (on the inside). Which holds them up, but is still quite loose. Did these stretch in the wash?! I think I could go down a size, or two. Will probably cut a straight 2X next time. But damn if these weren't a pair of wearable trousers with very little fussing. Achievement unlocked.
George + Ginger's Everlong trousers, finished, back view
Photo by ![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
chebe
George + Ginger's Everlong trousers, finished, front view
Photo by chebe