Vogue V1869, asymmetric top
That's right, we're going tissue pattern for this one! (Trying to follow paper instructions is like trying to read a broadsheet newspaper on a train. Not having to do this is one of my favourite features of digital patterns.) I'm talking about Vogue V1869, view A; the top. It's an off-the-shoulder wide collar, over a princess-seamed bodice, with a wildly asymmetric hem (that is split up the side for access to potential things like zippers and pockets). It closes by way of a long 18"/45cm invisible zip (though I used a 16" one) in the centre-back seam.
If I recall correctly, this is my first Vogue pattern. But it has the same size chart as Butterick and McCalls, so I figured it wouldn't be too different. I was pleased to see that they had marked the centre seams, waistlines, and even bust points on the tissue. And they have a petite height adjustment marked right there too! I went into this quite optimistic.
But not so optimistic that I skipped the toile. And good thing too. Based on measurements I cut a size 24, and made use of the petite adjustment. (Vogue apparently designs for regular height of 165-168cm / 5'5"-5'6", petite of 157-160cm / 5'2"-5'3".) It was simply too big. With lots of extra fabric across the back. I also hit my head against one of the steps to attach the facings that if I followed the images seemed impossible to then turn the facings to the inside, which is all they said. Either I completely misunderstood them, or they forgot that they had us sew in the zipper already. I crossed out that section and replaced it with the phrase 'Burrito method'.
For the second toile I traced a size 22. And removed 1cm from each of back pieces 4, 5, 6, 7, along the seams where they meet (the back seams, but not centre-back seam), graduated from the Petite fold line to 4cm above there, where it continues with full width reduction to the neckline, for a total with reduction of 4cm across the shoulder blades. (I skipped the facings and collar for this version.) This was much better, but there was still too much fabric across the back.
For the version cut from fabric I again used the size 22,
- But removed 1.5cm from each of back pieces 4, 5, 6, 7, along the seams where they meet, graduated from the Petite fold line to 4cm above there, where it continues with full width reduction to the neckline, for a total with reduction of 6cm across the shoulder blades,
- I also had to remove 3cm from the collar (piece 8), which is cut on the fold, for a total of 6cm,
- I raised the armholes a conservative one-and-a-quarter inches / ~3.25cm (could have gone up a bit more),
- On top of using the petite length, I removed a further 2" from the length lower (~10cm) towards the hips.
The pattern was designed to be made in crepe. I couldn't even find solid black silk crepe (let alone be able to afford it), so I settled for a Luxury Crepe Black Dress Fabric (100% polyester). The entire thing was meant to be made out of crepe, but I wanted to elevate it a bit, so I made the collar out of Duchesse Satin Classic Black Fabric (100% polyester). The Duchesse variety of satin is a lot stiffer than typical satin, which was wonderful. Meant I had no guilt skipping the interfacing. Both these fabrics were very easy to work with. I pre-finished all seams with my overlocker / serger, and they went through wonderfully. Only the deeper curves in the crepe were any issue at all. I pressed every seam I was told to, and they both took the press immediately. Really helped reduce the stress of this project.
The main issue I had was with the invisible zipper. It is in such a visible location that I knew how well I managed the installation would make or break the outfit. The instructions actually tell you to get a speciality zipper foot for invisible zips. I ordered the only one available locally online, and it turned out to be terrible quality injection molded cheap plastic. I had to trim the flash from the mold lines before the pieces could even turn smoothly, and it had zero strength to hold the fabric in place. I put zippers into the toiles for practice, and they were both awful. I was doing this all under time pressure you understand, so I was not having a good time. I got up in the middle of the night, went downstairs and dug through my bags of miscellaneous sewing stuff until I found a metal concealed zipper foot that I'd forgotten I'd already acquired. Next day I followed this invisible zipper tutorial, and installed one into a toile for another project. That's when I realised what I'd been missing. The zipper teeth are coiled onto the tape. You have to physically, with your fingers, and with the help of the speciality foot, open out the teeth in order to get the stitching close enough to actually make it nearly invisible. Then I had at the zipper for this top. It's not perfect, but it is damn good. A couple places I actually got a little too close, making the zip stick a bit if the angle isn't right. But I'll take that over how I had been doing invisible zippers for the last while.
I did have to true one seam at the hem. It was a good inch-and-a-half mismatched. The paper pattern seems fine, so I probably adjusted the fabric incorrectly when I was cutting it. (The tails parts are much longer than my cutting table, so I have to cut half the fabric, pull everything down, trying to keep it all together, then cut the other half.) I'm relieved (if a little surprised) that I only had that one issue. Cutting the excess off in the overlocker was no bother.
But yeah, this fabric is easy, and comfortable, to wear. The design means there's little opportunity for creasing, which is just all the better. And I have verified that it's good for dancing in. The hanger in the photo is a bit narrow for the collar, which sits much better over my actual shoulders. Vogue claims this is an 'Average' difficulty pattern. So I guess I'm an Average sewer now.
The pattern
If I recall correctly, this is my first Vogue pattern. But it has the same size chart as Butterick and McCalls, so I figured it wouldn't be too different. I was pleased to see that they had marked the centre seams, waistlines, and even bust points on the tissue. And they have a petite height adjustment marked right there too! I went into this quite optimistic.
But not so optimistic that I skipped the toile. And good thing too. Based on measurements I cut a size 24, and made use of the petite adjustment. (Vogue apparently designs for regular height of 165-168cm / 5'5"-5'6", petite of 157-160cm / 5'2"-5'3".) It was simply too big. With lots of extra fabric across the back. I also hit my head against one of the steps to attach the facings that if I followed the images seemed impossible to then turn the facings to the inside, which is all they said. Either I completely misunderstood them, or they forgot that they had us sew in the zipper already. I crossed out that section and replaced it with the phrase 'Burrito method'.
For the second toile I traced a size 22. And removed 1cm from each of back pieces 4, 5, 6, 7, along the seams where they meet (the back seams, but not centre-back seam), graduated from the Petite fold line to 4cm above there, where it continues with full width reduction to the neckline, for a total with reduction of 4cm across the shoulder blades. (I skipped the facings and collar for this version.) This was much better, but there was still too much fabric across the back.
For the version cut from fabric I again used the size 22,
- But removed 1.5cm from each of back pieces 4, 5, 6, 7, along the seams where they meet, graduated from the Petite fold line to 4cm above there, where it continues with full width reduction to the neckline, for a total with reduction of 6cm across the shoulder blades,
- I also had to remove 3cm from the collar (piece 8), which is cut on the fold, for a total of 6cm,
- I raised the armholes a conservative one-and-a-quarter inches / ~3.25cm (could have gone up a bit more),
- On top of using the petite length, I removed a further 2" from the length lower (~10cm) towards the hips.
Construction
The pattern was designed to be made in crepe. I couldn't even find solid black silk crepe (let alone be able to afford it), so I settled for a Luxury Crepe Black Dress Fabric (100% polyester). The entire thing was meant to be made out of crepe, but I wanted to elevate it a bit, so I made the collar out of Duchesse Satin Classic Black Fabric (100% polyester). The Duchesse variety of satin is a lot stiffer than typical satin, which was wonderful. Meant I had no guilt skipping the interfacing. Both these fabrics were very easy to work with. I pre-finished all seams with my overlocker / serger, and they went through wonderfully. Only the deeper curves in the crepe were any issue at all. I pressed every seam I was told to, and they both took the press immediately. Really helped reduce the stress of this project.
The main issue I had was with the invisible zipper. It is in such a visible location that I knew how well I managed the installation would make or break the outfit. The instructions actually tell you to get a speciality zipper foot for invisible zips. I ordered the only one available locally online, and it turned out to be terrible quality injection molded cheap plastic. I had to trim the flash from the mold lines before the pieces could even turn smoothly, and it had zero strength to hold the fabric in place. I put zippers into the toiles for practice, and they were both awful. I was doing this all under time pressure you understand, so I was not having a good time. I got up in the middle of the night, went downstairs and dug through my bags of miscellaneous sewing stuff until I found a metal concealed zipper foot that I'd forgotten I'd already acquired. Next day I followed this invisible zipper tutorial, and installed one into a toile for another project. That's when I realised what I'd been missing. The zipper teeth are coiled onto the tape. You have to physically, with your fingers, and with the help of the speciality foot, open out the teeth in order to get the stitching close enough to actually make it nearly invisible. Then I had at the zipper for this top. It's not perfect, but it is damn good. A couple places I actually got a little too close, making the zip stick a bit if the angle isn't right. But I'll take that over how I had been doing invisible zippers for the last while.
I did have to true one seam at the hem. It was a good inch-and-a-half mismatched. The paper pattern seems fine, so I probably adjusted the fabric incorrectly when I was cutting it. (The tails parts are much longer than my cutting table, so I have to cut half the fabric, pull everything down, trying to keep it all together, then cut the other half.) I'm relieved (if a little surprised) that I only had that one issue. Cutting the excess off in the overlocker was no bother.
But yeah, this fabric is easy, and comfortable, to wear. The design means there's little opportunity for creasing, which is just all the better. And I have verified that it's good for dancing in. The hanger in the photo is a bit narrow for the collar, which sits much better over my actual shoulders. Vogue claims this is an 'Average' difficulty pattern. So I guess I'm an Average sewer now.
Vogue v1869 top, finished, back view
Photo by ![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
chebe
Vogue v1869 top, finished, front view
Photo by chebe