Busy hands | Disquiet mind

Colette's Myrtle is a knit dress pattern that is supposed to work in a woven fabric too. Let's test that.

I'm cutting the same size L as the knit v.1, but just the top Front and Back pieces, not the skirt. There are special woven instructions, that have you finish the back armholes and neckline with bias binding, and have you fold the waistband casing up (instead of down) to cover the elastic. But I'm forging my own path here.

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Finished, front
Photo by chebe

I loved v.1 so much that I made another one! Everything is the same, except I overlocked/serged the raw edges before doing the clean seam finishes. And feel I managed most things more neatly the second time around.

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Finished, front
Photo by chebe

Vogue V1944 is, well, I'm not sure how to describe it. It's a strange woven collection of bias cut skirt, with two dropped shoulder shirt-inspired top options, one both fitted and cropped. I was interested in view b; the boxy oversized shirt.

But being a Vogue pattern, sizing is not straight forward. The measurements corresponding to the sizes are only shown on the envelope flap (not visible in the online envelope scans), and the useful finished garment measurements are typically only to be found on the pattern tissue itself. Being at the edges of the size range is quite risky. Last time I made a Vogue, I found the sizing ran large, and that a size 22 was the better starting point for me. Which is just as well, as size 22 is the maximum size available for this pattern. A size 22 is given as bust 112cm, waist 94cm. This would not fit me. But I'm looking at a boxy oversized shirt. So, I took the gamble. Turns out the finished garment measurements for view b are bust 132cm, waist 128cm. This is 20cm and 34cm of combined wearing and style ease. That should be plenty.

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Finished, front
Photo by chebe

McCall's M8479 is a woven short skirt pattern with faux-wrap options. I was having a hard time understanding how all the pieces went together, so I made a 'base' version of the skirt with the most common pieces and without any of the wrap choices, which isn't technically an option provided. It is closest to View A, but without the over-wrap half skirt (read on for explanation of this).

But first, why a skirt pattern? Well, simply, I need basic/versatile skirt options to fill a gap in my wardrobe. And this skirt pattern has a fly front zipper, which I haven't tried before. Skirts use less material even than shorts, so it's a lower stakes way to practice. And I really couldn't figure out what they were doing, without examining the pattern pieces closely. Curiosity, basically.

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McCall's M8479, finished, front view
Photo by chebe

Simplicity 8228 is a stretch lace bralette and knickers pattern, in sizes from 32A-42DD, and XS-XL. For the bralettes, you prepare the fabric by spray gluing (with temporary fabric adhesive) the stretch mesh to the stretch gallon lace, before cutting. The panties are stretch knits, with stretch lace panels. Which is quite the process, so first I'm going to make mockups in just straight stretch mesh.

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