Seamwork Pauline skirt alteration, v2
I made a modified Seamwork's Pauline skirt previously. And it worked out so well that I want to iterate on it. So how about I change the front seams into zips, and use the same black stretch lamé (96% Polyester, 4% Elastane) as in my v2 Margo skirt?
Most of the differences are in the patterning stage;
- This time I kept the size 16, but went (down) to a size 18 in the waist.
- I'm eliminating the side zip, but it's in the seam anyway, so that just disappears.
- The front seams are going to become zippers. But these aren't invisible zippers, they're open-ended double zips. Big and chonky. So I took 1cm off each side of each zip, for a total reduction of 4cm.
- The only open-ended double zips I could find were 56cm long. So I shortened the skirt to that length + 1.5cm x 2 for seam allowances.
- Open-ended zips separate completely. Which wouldn't make sense with a one-piece front waistband. So I cut that pattern piece into three pieces (adding appropriate seam-allowances).
- The back pieces stay the same, keeping the four waist darts, just shortening the length appropriately.
(- No need to finish any seams, no interfacing used.)
Changed order of operation;
- darts,
- attach outer waist band pieces at 3/8" / 1.0cm,
- zippers,
- side seams,
- attach inner waist band pieces at 3/8" / 1.0cm,
- turn right-side out, top-stitch in ditch,
- hem.
This time I used my walking foot! Which meant learning how to use it. It's very simple, the little arm goes on top of the place you tighten when changing the needle. My walking foot also came with a weird metal angled arm. No idea what it's for, I didn't make use of it. I used the walking foot for everything, except attaching the zippers. And it worked great! The seams are almost perfect. The zippers however, they're still a bit wavy. Not helped by the curve in the seam towards the waist. If I do this again I'd straighten those seams. And, sigh, probably use interfacing/stabiliser along the zipper seams.
It works, and it fits pretty well. Or it would, in a stable or woven. I couldn't register in my head just how stretchy this fabric is. Now I can tell you. If you remove the front panel completely, and zip the two half-zips together, the skirt still fits. This fabric is stretchy. It does fit better than the Margo in the same material though. But is definitely more industrial goth, than sci-fi.
Most of the differences are in the patterning stage;
- This time I kept the size 16, but went (down) to a size 18 in the waist.
- I'm eliminating the side zip, but it's in the seam anyway, so that just disappears.
- The front seams are going to become zippers. But these aren't invisible zippers, they're open-ended double zips. Big and chonky. So I took 1cm off each side of each zip, for a total reduction of 4cm.
- The only open-ended double zips I could find were 56cm long. So I shortened the skirt to that length + 1.5cm x 2 for seam allowances.
- Open-ended zips separate completely. Which wouldn't make sense with a one-piece front waistband. So I cut that pattern piece into three pieces (adding appropriate seam-allowances).
- The back pieces stay the same, keeping the four waist darts, just shortening the length appropriately.
(- No need to finish any seams, no interfacing used.)
Changed order of operation;
- darts,
- attach outer waist band pieces at 3/8" / 1.0cm,
- zippers,
- side seams,
- attach inner waist band pieces at 3/8" / 1.0cm,
- turn right-side out, top-stitch in ditch,
- hem.
This time I used my walking foot! Which meant learning how to use it. It's very simple, the little arm goes on top of the place you tighten when changing the needle. My walking foot also came with a weird metal angled arm. No idea what it's for, I didn't make use of it. I used the walking foot for everything, except attaching the zippers. And it worked great! The seams are almost perfect. The zippers however, they're still a bit wavy. Not helped by the curve in the seam towards the waist. If I do this again I'd straighten those seams. And, sigh, probably use interfacing/stabiliser along the zipper seams.
It works, and it fits pretty well. Or it would, in a stable or woven. I couldn't register in my head just how stretchy this fabric is. Now I can tell you. If you remove the front panel completely, and zip the two half-zips together, the skirt still fits. This fabric is stretchy. It does fit better than the Margo in the same material though. But is definitely more industrial goth, than sci-fi.
Modified Seamwork Pauline in stretch pvc, finished, back view
Photo by ![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
chebe
Modified Seamwork Pauline in stretch pvc, finished, back view
Photo by chebe