McCall's M8479, woven short skirt pattern with faux-wrap options. I previously made the 'base' skirt, without any of the wrap options; v.1. Now it's time to wrap.

Details )


Front view of a black woven a-line skirt, with one gusseted pocket with flap and black clip buckle and webbing, and the right hand side wrap piece, which has four knife pleats, is strapped closed by way of the gunmetal d-rings on the left hand side, hanging from a black hanger, against a white wardrobe.

McCall's M8479, view b, finished, front view with wrap closed
Photo by [personal profile] chebe

McCall's M8479 is a woven short skirt pattern with faux-wrap options. I was having a hard time understanding how all the pieces went together, so I made a 'base' version of the skirt with the most common pieces and without any of the wrap choices, which isn't technically an option provided. It is closest to View A, but without the over-wrap half skirt (read on for explanation of this).

But first, why a skirt pattern? Well, simply, I need basic/versatile skirt options to fill a gap in my wardrobe. And this skirt pattern has a fly front zipper, which I haven't tried before. Skirts use less material even than shorts, so it's a lower stakes way to practice. And I really couldn't figure out what they were doing, without examining the pattern pieces closely. Curiosity, basically.

Details )


Front view of a grey woven a-line skirt, with a button closed overlapping waistband, fly front zipper, and slanted patch pockets, hanging from a black hanger, against a white wardrobe.

McCall's M8479, finished, front view
Photo by [personal profile] chebe

The Hazel Skirt is a hi-lo full skirt, with different length and waist options. I went with the high-waist, without the straps, with the shorter length skirt. I toiled the waistband, in size Mushroom, and then cut out a size Diamond.

Details )


Front view of a shiny black pvc skirt with a high corset-like waist (coming to a v-point centre-front) over a full skirt with a shorter hem in front and longer in back, hanging from a black hanger, against a white wardrobe.

Hazel skirt, finished, front view, in black pvc
Photo by [personal profile] chebe

After making the Aberdeen t-shirt I still have plenty of that Spoonflower fabric left over, so I figured I'd try something more suitable to its weight, like a skirt for layering.

I don't actually have a skater skirt pattern. Or instructions for how to draft a flared knit skirt. So taking inspiration from the many I've worn over the years I attempted to draft my own skater skirt.

Details )


Front view of a short skirt with a narrow waistband, made from a thick jersey with a pattern or pale purple, green, and pale yellow planets and stars against a faded black base, hanging from a black hanger against a white wardrobe

Skater skirt, finished, front view
Photo by [personal profile] chebe

Seamwork Christina skirt

2024-May-08, Wednesday 12:00 pm
Seamwork's Christina is that wardrobe staple; the pencil skirt. This one is a little different with a curved hem, faced back split, and invisible centre-back zip. The Bonus pattern is a more conventional pencil skirt, with pockets. I took the side pockets and added them to the base skirt. This is a non-stretch woven, close-fitting skirt. So first things first.

Details )


A knee-length pencil skirt, in dark blue denim, with a hem that is higher in the front, with the back hem visible as two points, hanging from a black hanger against a white wardrobe.

Seamwork's Christina straight skirt, fitted, finished, front view
Photo by [personal profile] chebe

I made a modified Seamwork's Pauline skirt previously. And it worked out so well that I want to iterate on it. So how about I change the front seams into zips, and use the same black stretch lamé (96% Polyester, 4% Elastane) as in my v2 Margo skirt?

Details )


Front view of a nearly knee-length black stretch pvc skirt, with two chunky black zips vertically down the front (dividing the front into three pieces), hanging from a black hanger against a white wardrobe.

Modified Seamwork Pauline in stretch pvc, finished, back view
Photo by [personal profile] chebe

Seamwork Pauline skirt

2023-Jun-13, Tuesday 01:20 pm
Seamwork's Pauline is a midi-length straight skirt with a split to the front on a princess seam along the knee. I said 'MOAR', and mirrored the split on the other side to get two splits. I straightened the top of the front-side panels a smidge, and took 16cm off the length, to just about knee-length. With the Margo sizing still in my mind I made this one on a base pattern of size 16, with a size 20 at the waist. The back is plain, with double waist darts on each side. This was only a first version so I didn't bother adding pockets or anything.

I made it up in this plain cotton twill, in black, (100% cotton), 240 g/m2. 9" invisible zips apparently don't exist any more, so I used an 11"/ 28cm invisible zip, in black, in the side seam, and closed with a hook and eye, also in black. (This pattern actually calls for the use of a hook and eye, this is a sensible pattern.) I once again skipped the interfacing.

This little skirt might not look like much, but it is a fantastic fit. The slight narrowing under the hips is very flattering. And as a basic black skirt will go with anything in my wardrobe. This is up there for the best thing I've ever made. I do want to look into ways to stop damage to the tops of splits / vents like this though, as that's the weakest part of this kind of skirt.


A knee-length straight skirt, in black twill, with two splits / vents on the front, hanging from a black hanger against a white wardrobe.

Seamwork's Pauline straight skirt, slightly modded, finished, front view
Photo by [personal profile] chebe

Remember Seamwork's Margo I made not too long ago? Well I made another version. But this one's a bit different.

A friend pointed me at The Closet Historian's youtube, and I have become obsessed with her retro-futurism and cyberpunk designs. Many of her outfits and look-books feature shiny shiny pencil skirts in a variety of novelty fabrics. I want.

But. I'm having difficulty sourcing the really nice cosplay fabrics she uses inside my tax region. So until I figure that out I'm trying out the more old-school dance-wear fabrics that are available to me, like this stretch black lamé (96% Polyester, 4% Elastane), which feels like a lighter-weight spandex coated in mock-pvc.

She made a video about how to make her simple stretch pencil skirts. But, I'm worried that for daily wear they might look more fetish than sci-fi (which is what I'm aiming at) on me, so I'm using Margo instead. That's a 16-18/XL, with the hips narrowed, and I took 3" out of the length.

Using a fabric like this requires a slightly different set of tools. I'm using my clips instead of pins, to avoid unnecessary permanent perforations in the material. I trialled a teflon foot versus a regular foot, and there are catches with both. My teflon foot opening is very narrow, so I can't use twin-needles or zig-zag stitches with it. And because the whole point of it is to not grip the fabric I need to use two hands to guide the fabric through the machine to keep stitching straight. But the regular foot causes the top and bottom fabrics to travel at different speeds, creating a twist in the seam. Luckily I was able to press this out, but think I'll be sticking to the teflon foot whenever I can while top-stitching. (The back of this fabric behaves like regular spandex.) The bonus is that this fabric is unlikely to fray, so I skipped seam finishes. I did press, and hem though. Just with a straight stitch, not a twin-needle.

It fits with minimal tension across the waist and hips, and is loose further down. As you can imagine it's not all that flattering across the tummy. (But that can be countered with structured under-garments, or a longer top over it.) I'm almost tempted to go down a size, to get a fit closer to the pencil skirts. We'll see. I guess I should have figured, from this being a dance fabric, but it's actually quite comfortable, doesn't fight movement at all. Not sure its reached 'sci-fi' though, at least not on its own.


Black glossy mid-length skirt with self-fabric waistband, hanging from a black hanger, against white wardrobe doors.

Finished Margo skirt
Photo by [personal profile] chebe

Seamwork Margo

2022-Dec-28, Wednesday 11:30 am
Seamwork's Margo is a pencil skirt with side-splits, but in a knit fabric. Apparently I sat so long on this pattern that it has been archived. But I quite like this quick little skirt. The waistband is self-fabric, no elastic. There's no fasteners. The below-knee side-splits add a little extra interest (and sewing technique to practice), the seams are finished with a serger/overlocker, and the hems are twin-needled, in absence of a coverstitch machine.

I made mine in a purpley-auberginey-berry colour (think the lighter of the purples on a Quality Street tin). The thread isn't an exact match, but pretty close, I used Gütermann thread colour 718. In a lighter-medium weight jersey. (I can't find the receipt so I don't know what the fibre content is, but it's stretchy.)

Trying the finished skirt on I noticed two things; the hem is longer than I expected, and the hips bulged out a bit too much. I trimmed the excess off the hips (making it more of a straight skirt), and found out from another pattern that these are drafted for someone 6" taller than I am. I won't shorten this one (I'd have to re-do the side-splits), but I will definitely shorten the pattern for the next version.


Purple jersey midi-length skirt with self-fabric waistband, hanging from a black hanger, against white wardrobe doors.

Finished Margo skirt
Photo by [personal profile] chebe



Close-up detail )
I've had an idea for an elaborate electronic skirt for, literally, years now. And no matter how long I waited progress just wasn't being made. At one point I realised that EMFcamp was fast approaching and I needed something for it. So I scaled back my ambitions, found a white tulle/net skirt on sale, and got to work.

I had a few Neopixel strands laying about the house, and found to my surprise that each 20 pixel (2" pitch) strand was almost exactly the width of my skirt. Two strands would completely encircle it. Rather convenient. And I wanted to be able to set the colour of the Neopixels from things around me, so I needed a colour sensor. I also wanted a potentiometer so I could adjust the brightness depending on ambient light, and would need a button to change between modes. Oh, and a microcontroller to make it all work. Which gave me this circuit.

Details )

But white is very much not my aesthetic. Which is a large part of why I made this an underskirt. You can use this one underskirt with a variety of overskirts to achieve different effects. Here I've used a black crushed velvet skirt with uneven hem so that some of the glowing tulle/net still peeks out. In dark enough environments, there is a side benefit of seeming to exist in a puddle of light on the ground. (Which can be handy when trying to navigate a campsite.) Overall this skirt is fun, but not the most practical. Though I do foresee it coming in handy from time to time.



Skirt
Photo by [personal profile] chebe



Parts;
Fabric scraps
Petticoat
Skirt

Potentiometer
Adafruit Flora
Adafruit Neopixel strands
3-pin JST SM Plug + Receptacle Cable Set
Adafruit Colour Sensor
LilyPad Button Board

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