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Simplicity 8228 (2016) view B and view C, bralette and panties, mockups
Simplicity 8228 is a stretch lace bralette and knickers pattern, in sizes from 32A-42DD, and XS-XL. For the bralettes, you prepare the fabric by spray gluing (with temporary fabric adhesive) the stretch mesh to the stretch gallon lace, before cutting. The panties are stretch knits, with stretch lace panels. Which is quite the process, so first I'm going to make mockups in just straight stretch mesh.
I'm cutting the largest sizes; bralette size 42, DD cup, and panties size XL. I'm making view B, which is a pull-over style and should have a racer back, but instead I'm just going to use two bra-strap elastic straps, which worked out to be 44cm long. All fabric is black stretch mesh, except the black jersey for the crotch piece. And clear stretch elastic, where not bra-strap elastic.
In contrast to the Pin-Up Girls panty, the elastic around the legs, and the waist, is all sewn on the outside, then turned inside, such that the elastic ends up next to the skin. The top-edge of the bralette has the elastic sewn directly on the inside. So these patterns would work well with edged/picot elastic. (Also in contrast, the crotch lining has one edge left floating / not completely enclosed.)
The machine hated sewing this fabric, especially the knickers, where the lace panels are overlapped with the knit and sewn. Mesh on mesh just doesn't have the same resistance to getting eaten by the feed dogs. The knickers, ended up being much larger (taller and wider) than the Pin-Up Girls. All the way up to my natural waist, which is much too tall. And with all the diagonal lace panels altering this pattern just doesn't worth the effort, so I won't be making these again.
I ended up removing ~1.5" from the Centre-Front of bralette piece 4 - Cup Front top edge, tapering to nothing at the bottom of the pattern piece, much like I did with the Seamwork Florence. Otherwise the fit is pretty good. I'm in two minds about whether I need to add more height to the front cups or not. Or if I want to lengthen the lower band pieces. I'll need to wear test this mockup a bit more.
(I do need to remember to use a stretch stitch around the back band of the bralette next time though.)
I'm cutting the largest sizes; bralette size 42, DD cup, and panties size XL. I'm making view B, which is a pull-over style and should have a racer back, but instead I'm just going to use two bra-strap elastic straps, which worked out to be 44cm long. All fabric is black stretch mesh, except the black jersey for the crotch piece. And clear stretch elastic, where not bra-strap elastic.
In contrast to the Pin-Up Girls panty, the elastic around the legs, and the waist, is all sewn on the outside, then turned inside, such that the elastic ends up next to the skin. The top-edge of the bralette has the elastic sewn directly on the inside. So these patterns would work well with edged/picot elastic. (Also in contrast, the crotch lining has one edge left floating / not completely enclosed.)
The machine hated sewing this fabric, especially the knickers, where the lace panels are overlapped with the knit and sewn. Mesh on mesh just doesn't have the same resistance to getting eaten by the feed dogs. The knickers, ended up being much larger (taller and wider) than the Pin-Up Girls. All the way up to my natural waist, which is much too tall. And with all the diagonal lace panels altering this pattern just doesn't worth the effort, so I won't be making these again.
8228 view C, panties, finished, back view
Photo by chebe
8228 view C, panties, finished, front view
Photo by chebe
I ended up removing ~1.5" from the Centre-Front of bralette piece 4 - Cup Front top edge, tapering to nothing at the bottom of the pattern piece, much like I did with the Seamwork Florence. Otherwise the fit is pretty good. I'm in two minds about whether I need to add more height to the front cups or not. Or if I want to lengthen the lower band pieces. I'll need to wear test this mockup a bit more.
(I do need to remember to use a stretch stitch around the back band of the bralette next time though.)
8228 view B, bralette, finished, back view
Photo by chebe
8228 view B, bralette, finished, front view
Photo by chebe