Busy hands | Disquiet mind

Base layers. Not the cold weather kind, but the kind that protect you from your clothes, and your clothes from you. Made from a, well, slippy-er, fabric, this could be part of a slip. But as it is, it's just a camisole. Perfect for under tops like shirts, where unruly buttons might cause embarrassment. To reduce a certain degree of clinging, and nuisance bodily fluids. And foiling transparency. But not something I would consider wearing on its own.

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Hush-A-Bye camisole, finished, front view
Photo by chebe

And back to underwear. Pin-Up Girls Cheryl is a knit knickers pattern that had me puzzled for quite some time. Until I realised that it's a one-piece (plus crotch piece) pattern, with a single seam, down the centre back. Light-bulb moment.

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The Secrets of Sewing Lingerie by Katherine Sheers and Laura Stanford, is lovely little book with a luxurious feel. It goes over the small details often overlooked on how to sew, and decorate, delicate undergarments. To this end it includes a selection of patterns, that come on folded paper, as a pull-out from the book.

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Hush-A-Bye vest, finished, front view
Photo by chebe

The Tippi brief is a jersey knickers with a chunk in the rear replaced with stretch lace. It comes as a digital download, and I received it (and the fabrics) in the January Mystery Box. I was especially worried about the sizing as the pattern stops at a Large (at 104cm/41" hips).

First I added 3cm to the height of the brief at the waist. I added 1.5cm to each centre fold (so 3cm each to the front and back). I also added 1.5cm to the side seams (so 3cm total) of the upper back piece. I added a couple extra centimetres to each of the leg and waist elastics as well.

The fabrics are an organic cotton jersey in silver-grey, and a stretch lace in black. I replaced the looped underwear elastic trims for regular elastic and twice turned hems. I made sure to change my threads to black on the sections where the lace meets the edges, and the rest is done in silver-grey thread.

I am pleasantly surprised at how well it fits, and how comfortable it is to wear. I had been worried the rear fabrics and seams would annoy me, but no, everything works just fine. The crotch (which is doubled and sewn shut at both ends) is almost too wide (after adding width at the centre folds) but still good. I am glad I added the extra height in particular, but that is personal preference. The overall aesthetic is a bit fancy for me, but I could see another pair or two happening in the future if I find myself with extra stretch lace.

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Colette's Nutmeg is a collection of a bralette and two bottoms. A long time ago I made the view 1, knickers. This time I made the view 2, tap pants.

Longer than they appear on the packaging these shorts consist of eight pieces; yoke piece and leg piece, left and right, front and back. Made of stable woven fabrics, and cut on the bias. With an elasticated waist. I made mine in a pretty patterned pink cotton. Straight stitch construction, seams finished with overlock stitch/foot. Except for the visible topstitching joining the yoke and leg pieces, which is a zigzag.

The fit of these shorts do not suit me. The rear is pulled too tight and the front belly has too much material. My usual gripe with shorts/trousers patterns. Hopefully I'll get some use out of them.

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