I got a 3D printer; Snapmaker 2.0 A250 and flipping the Enclosure
2021-Mar-17, Wednesday 03:55 pm![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
chebeI tried for a long time to avoid taking this step. But increasingly I kept hitting roadblocks in projects that required 3D printed parts. In the past when this happened I would bug friends who had access to 3D printers. But with the rolling lockdowns the community spaces that contains those printers remain closed, and my access to prints was cut off, with no end date. Reluctantly I started researching.
I came across the Snapmaker 2.0, and it impressed me. Firstly, because it is a second generation product, but they are still supporting the first version. And also because while I felt I needed a 3D printer, I wanted a laser cutter. Although long ago I had to accept that I didn't have the space for a CO2 laser machine, and especially not for its exhaust/filtration system. Here was my chance to have a variety of laser cutting to experiment with, without taking up extra space. But with laser cutting, and CNC routing, I would definitely want the enclosure. Which is not small.
I ran around measuring every shelf I have and realised I still didn't have anywhere to put this machine. Until Ikea begun to offer a Bror shelving unit. The shelf depth is almost exactly the width of the A250 enclosure. The width is a little longer than the depth of the A250 enclosure, but almost exactly the same as the enclosure with the power module behind it. And it's a workshop shelving unit, made to hold up to 130kg (distributed evenly), which is more than enough for the A250. I made some space to fit the unit, next to an air vent, and placed my order for the shelving unit. I was given a delivery date nearly four weeks later.
The Snapmaker website says orders will be shipped two weeks after being placed. So I ordered one two weeks after the Ikea order so I'd have somewhere to put it. Well. It didn't work out that smoothly. My Snapmaker shipped a month after I placed the order, but that was over lunar new year so I wasn't really surprised. However Ikea delayed my delivery by another month, which means the Snapmaker arrived before I had anywhere to put it.
What was I going to do, wait?! Nope. I built the A250 on the dining room table, surrounded by laundry. I followed the instructions straight forwardly, and started making prints for my projects.
Two weeks later Ikea finally delivered, I assembled the shelving unit, and then set about assembling the enclosure. The catch is that the enclosure (and the A250) are designed to be accessed from the right-hand side. Which for me is a wall. I had to flip everything. I found a reference to someone in the facebook group having done it, but I don't have facebook, so I just gave it my best shot.
Flipping the Enclosure
I can't find the enclosure set up guide online, but there is a video version. In the order of the set up guide manual;
Step 01;
- Flip 24 BEAM-1 so that the slot is to the left, and the magnet is to the right.
- Flip 48CA BEAM-2 so that it is to the left, and that the magnet is to the front and the slot to the back.
Step 02;
- This means 48CA BEAM-4 is now on the right.
Step 04;
- The Touchscreen holder is screwed in on the left.
Step 05;
- The 24 BEAM-3 (with the Hall Sensor black box) goes on the left corner next to the Touchscreen holder. The Hall Sensor will have its cable running down. This needs to be unscrewed and turned around so the cable runs up from it (watch out for falling plastic nuts).
Step 06;
- 24 BEAM-1 needs to be flipped so the magnet is on the left and the slot on the right.
- 48CA BEAM-3 needs to go on the left. The port for the LED strip needs to be at the back, so the strip needs to be unscrewed, slid out, turned around, slid back in, and screwed in place.
Step 07;
- 48CA BEAM-1 needs to go on the right, with the magnet to the front and the slot to the back. The LED strip also needs to be flipped as before so the connector is also at the back.
Step 10;
- Check that the magnets/slots in the beams are orientated to the left as above.
Step 11;
- Assemble the back panel so that the fan is to the left.
Step 12;
- Place the back panel so that the fan is to the left.
Step 21;
- Before placing the Side Folding Door we need to rearrange the panels. Lay the door down, outside up (side without visible magnets), with door handle to the left. Unscrew one side of each hinge. Swap the right and middle panel (or just the hinges themselves), such that the hinge with the magnet is on the middle panel. Screw them back together.
Step 22;
- Attach the Side Folding Door to the left hand side of the frame.
Step 23;
- Once you screw the end hinge on you will notice the drawback of this arrangement. Because the 48CA BEAM-2 and 48CA BEAM-1 can't be properly inverted (they only have one set of magnets/slots) the Side Folding Door has the slots next to the back frame upright. Which means it can't move. The front two panels (secured with magnets) will operate freely, but the third panel is stuck in place. I suppose you could detach the sliders from the Door if you need to, but that might affect stability.
Step 24;
- The Touchscreen is now on the left, and the Controller on the right. The cable can stretch (tuck it under the base plate at the front-right Foot Fixture), but I went for a different solution in the end (please see next section).
Step 25;
- Before placing the Front Folding Door we need to flip one of the panels. Lay the door down, outside up (side without visible magnets), with door handle to the left. Unscrew the left panel (the one with the cut-out for the Touchscreen) from the handle and the hinge. Flip the panel so that the cut-out is closest to you, and to the left hand side. Screw it back in place. The only downside to this is that the black foam strips on the 'inside' of the panel are now on the outside. I couldn't remove them without tearing them, so you will need new foam strips to apply to the new inside of the panel.
Step 26;
- Place the Front Folding Door so that the handle is to the left hand side.
Step 28;
- This all means that the Side Panel needs to be attached on the right hand side.
Step 29;
- The Filament Holder also needs to be attached on the right hand side. (This protrudes quite a bit, I'm looking for a better filament holding solution.)
Flipping the Controller
At Step 24 you realise that the Controller being on the right-hand side causes the Touchscreen cable to stretch a lot, and that accessing the Controller to change cables is awkward. I decided to move the Controller to the left-hand side as well. But there is a problem. The X-Axis cable won't reach. I contacted Snapmaker support to ask them if they could provide an extension cable, or if there was a way in the firmware to tell it that I flipped the X-Axis beam. They sold me a Converter and Conversion Cable (like those used on the Y-Axis and Z-Axis) for US$19 + US$15 shipping (+ €40 taxes and charges).
So I removed the Enclosure, unscrewed the Controller and flipped it to the other Z-Axis beam (with cable plugs pointing away from the machine), and screwed it on.
Using two M4 x 30 screws left over from the A250 build I attached the new X-Axis Converter to the outside of the upright beam, and moved the Toolhead Cable Holder to the same upright as the Controller and used it to channel the new X-Axis Conversion/Extension Cable.
I rerouted the Y-Axis and Z-Axis cables underneath the base plate to the other side, replaced the Enclosure, and rearranged all the cables that needed it. Then just booted everything up, recalibrated the bed, and tested it out.
Conclusion;
There are some little annoyances, like needing to add foam strips to one of the panels of the Front Folding Door, and having to buy the X-Axis Converter and Cable, but the only real downside is not being able to open one of the panels of the Side Folding Door. If Snapmaker make it possible to get an 48CA BEAM A250-2 and 48CA BEAM A250-1 with the slots and magnets swapped it would be just about perfect. Though I would like a different filament holder solution, and I have yet to attach the Exhaust Duct to the air vent in the wall, but otherwise everything is working lovely.
(Also, I have to say, the presentation of everything was impeccable. The boxes (and bags) were neatly arranged and clearly labelled. The manual was very clear. And everything you need (unless you start modifying things) is included. There is a nice reusable toolbox (with additional adjustable inserts), there is a screwdriver with changeable heads. There is a USB drive. Everything was just so smooth, it was a pleasure.)
I came across the Snapmaker 2.0, and it impressed me. Firstly, because it is a second generation product, but they are still supporting the first version. And also because while I felt I needed a 3D printer, I wanted a laser cutter. Although long ago I had to accept that I didn't have the space for a CO2 laser machine, and especially not for its exhaust/filtration system. Here was my chance to have a variety of laser cutting to experiment with, without taking up extra space. But with laser cutting, and CNC routing, I would definitely want the enclosure. Which is not small.
I ran around measuring every shelf I have and realised I still didn't have anywhere to put this machine. Until Ikea begun to offer a Bror shelving unit. The shelf depth is almost exactly the width of the A250 enclosure. The width is a little longer than the depth of the A250 enclosure, but almost exactly the same as the enclosure with the power module behind it. And it's a workshop shelving unit, made to hold up to 130kg (distributed evenly), which is more than enough for the A250. I made some space to fit the unit, next to an air vent, and placed my order for the shelving unit. I was given a delivery date nearly four weeks later.
The Snapmaker website says orders will be shipped two weeks after being placed. So I ordered one two weeks after the Ikea order so I'd have somewhere to put it. Well. It didn't work out that smoothly. My Snapmaker shipped a month after I placed the order, but that was over lunar new year so I wasn't really surprised. However Ikea delayed my delivery by another month, which means the Snapmaker arrived before I had anywhere to put it.
What was I going to do, wait?! Nope. I built the A250 on the dining room table, surrounded by laundry. I followed the instructions straight forwardly, and started making prints for my projects.
My very first 3D print
Photo by chebe
Two weeks later Ikea finally delivered, I assembled the shelving unit, and then set about assembling the enclosure. The catch is that the enclosure (and the A250) are designed to be accessed from the right-hand side. Which for me is a wall. I had to flip everything. I found a reference to someone in the facebook group having done it, but I don't have facebook, so I just gave it my best shot.
I can't find the enclosure set up guide online, but there is a video version. In the order of the set up guide manual;
Step 01;
- Flip 24 BEAM-1 so that the slot is to the left, and the magnet is to the right.
- Flip 48CA BEAM-2 so that it is to the left, and that the magnet is to the front and the slot to the back.
Step 02;
- This means 48CA BEAM-4 is now on the right.
Step 04;
- The Touchscreen holder is screwed in on the left.
Step 05;
- The 24 BEAM-3 (with the Hall Sensor black box) goes on the left corner next to the Touchscreen holder. The Hall Sensor will have its cable running down. This needs to be unscrewed and turned around so the cable runs up from it (watch out for falling plastic nuts).
Lower frame and Hall Sensor looking from inside
Photo by chebe
Step 06;
- 24 BEAM-1 needs to be flipped so the magnet is on the left and the slot on the right.
- 48CA BEAM-3 needs to go on the left. The port for the LED strip needs to be at the back, so the strip needs to be unscrewed, slid out, turned around, slid back in, and screwed in place.
Upper Frame with LED Strip flipped
Photo by chebe
Step 07;
- 48CA BEAM-1 needs to go on the right, with the magnet to the front and the slot to the back. The LED strip also needs to be flipped as before so the connector is also at the back.
Upper frame
Photo by chebe
Step 10;
- Check that the magnets/slots in the beams are orientated to the left as above.
Frame assembled
Photo by chebe
Step 11;
- Assemble the back panel so that the fan is to the left.
Step 12;
- Place the back panel so that the fan is to the left.
Back panel attached to frame
Photo by chebe
Step 21;
- Before placing the Side Folding Door we need to rearrange the panels. Lay the door down, outside up (side without visible magnets), with door handle to the left. Unscrew one side of each hinge. Swap the right and middle panel (or just the hinges themselves), such that the hinge with the magnet is on the middle panel. Screw them back together.
Disassembling Side Folding Door panels
Photo by chebe
Reassembling Side Folding Door panels
Photo by chebe
Step 22;
- Attach the Side Folding Door to the left hand side of the frame.
Step 23;
- Once you screw the end hinge on you will notice the drawback of this arrangement. Because the 48CA BEAM-2 and 48CA BEAM-1 can't be properly inverted (they only have one set of magnets/slots) the Side Folding Door has the slots next to the back frame upright. Which means it can't move. The front two panels (secured with magnets) will operate freely, but the third panel is stuck in place. I suppose you could detach the sliders from the Door if you need to, but that might affect stability.
Side Folding Door attached to left of frame
Photo by chebe
Step 24;
- The Touchscreen is now on the left, and the Controller on the right. The cable can stretch (tuck it under the base plate at the front-right Foot Fixture), but I went for a different solution in the end (please see next section).
Touchscreen cable overly stretched
Photo by chebe
Step 25;
- Before placing the Front Folding Door we need to flip one of the panels. Lay the door down, outside up (side without visible magnets), with door handle to the left. Unscrew the left panel (the one with the cut-out for the Touchscreen) from the handle and the hinge. Flip the panel so that the cut-out is closest to you, and to the left hand side. Screw it back in place. The only downside to this is that the black foam strips on the 'inside' of the panel are now on the outside. I couldn't remove them without tearing them, so you will need new foam strips to apply to the new inside of the panel.
Disassembling Front Folding Door
Photo by chebe
Reassembling Front Folding Door
Photo by chebe
Step 26;
- Place the Front Folding Door so that the handle is to the left hand side.
Step 28;
- This all means that the Side Panel needs to be attached on the right hand side.
Step 29;
- The Filament Holder also needs to be attached on the right hand side. (This protrudes quite a bit, I'm looking for a better filament holding solution.)
Enclosure assembled
Photo by chebe
At Step 24 you realise that the Controller being on the right-hand side causes the Touchscreen cable to stretch a lot, and that accessing the Controller to change cables is awkward. I decided to move the Controller to the left-hand side as well. But there is a problem. The X-Axis cable won't reach. I contacted Snapmaker support to ask them if they could provide an extension cable, or if there was a way in the firmware to tell it that I flipped the X-Axis beam. They sold me a Converter and Conversion Cable (like those used on the Y-Axis and Z-Axis) for US$19 + US$15 shipping (+ €40 taxes and charges).
So I removed the Enclosure, unscrewed the Controller and flipped it to the other Z-Axis beam (with cable plugs pointing away from the machine), and screwed it on.
Using two M4 x 30 screws left over from the A250 build I attached the new X-Axis Converter to the outside of the upright beam, and moved the Toolhead Cable Holder to the same upright as the Controller and used it to channel the new X-Axis Conversion/Extension Cable.
I rerouted the Y-Axis and Z-Axis cables underneath the base plate to the other side, replaced the Enclosure, and rearranged all the cables that needed it. Then just booted everything up, recalibrated the bed, and tested it out.
Controller flipped to opposite Z-Axis beam
Photo by chebe
Left flipped Controller in fully assembled Enclosure
Photo by chebe
Conclusion;
There are some little annoyances, like needing to add foam strips to one of the panels of the Front Folding Door, and having to buy the X-Axis Converter and Cable, but the only real downside is not being able to open one of the panels of the Side Folding Door. If Snapmaker make it possible to get an 48CA BEAM A250-2 and 48CA BEAM A250-1 with the slots and magnets swapped it would be just about perfect. Though I would like a different filament holder solution, and I have yet to attach the Exhaust Duct to the air vent in the wall, but otherwise everything is working lovely.
(Also, I have to say, the presentation of everything was impeccable. The boxes (and bags) were neatly arranged and clearly labelled. The manual was very clear. And everything you need (unless you start modifying things) is included. There is a nice reusable toolbox (with additional adjustable inserts), there is a screwdriver with changeable heads. There is a USB drive. Everything was just so smooth, it was a pleasure.)
