Seamwork Rudy hoodie and Mel joggers, v.3
2023-Mar-08, Wednesday 12:00 pm![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
chebeSeamwork's Rudy is a raglan sleeve hoodie, with patch pouch pocket. The Bonus adds a centre front zipper. It is a relaxed fit, with elastic at the wrists and hem, through the hem casings, no cuffs. I went with a Misses size 16, but concerned by the finished garment sweep measurement, I added 2" to the width. To avoid any complicated interactions with the sleeves I added a half-inch to both centre-front seams, and to the centre-back fold. As well as slashing up the back of the hood sides (where the seam allowance stops towards the back), and spreading them a half-inch each side as well. And not to forget the pockets, added a half-inch to each of the centre-front edges as well.
I made this up with a Recycled Jogging Fabric - Dark Grey Melange (56% recycled cotton, 44% polyester), 280g/m2 weight sweatshirt fabric, Gütermann thread colour 36, in recycled polyester. And it used a lot of thread. Over 100m. (Getting more of this thread is not easy, it isn't readily available at all Gütermann stockists yet.) Twin-needled along the hood, the pocket edges, the waist hem, and the sleeves hems. A narrow zigzag stretch stitch most other places, with straight stitch along the zip. Seams finished on overlocker/serger.
I used a double-ended zipper, that was much too long, so had to pull out some teeth with pliers to cut off the extra length. The pockets are off-set from each other by less-than a quarter-inch. I unpicked, and redid one side, once, and didn't fancy doing it again. The pockets are both slightly off-set, in the direction of the stitching. Next time it would be a good idea to use that Walking Foot to see if it helps. I learnt how to properly encase the zipper tails. Also, I added machine tacks at each open corner of the pockets. It's my new favourite thing, I'll be reinforcing all the things now. I made the drawstring casing around the hood (button-holes and all), but I won't be adding a drawstring. I added elastic to the sleeves, but not the waist.
We're already familiar with Seamwork's Mel, the joggers I've made before. For this version, same size 18, but I added 1" to the length at the ankle, and added 1" to the width of each of the ankles (tapered from the calves) as compared to the base pattern used in v.1, and +1" length, but -1" width as compared to v.2.
Same sweatshirt fabric, same thread, as above. I managed to stretch/gather the waistband properly this time. I included the drawstring button-holes on the waistband, but won't be using them. Twin-needled along the pockets fronts, only. Machine tacked the pocket corners. Used a triple chain stitch everywhere else (twice around the crotch) that is supposed to be strong and stretchy. Seams finished on overlocker/serger.
The hoodie has a nice ease at the hem, which hits about the top of my pelvic bones. (I could, perhaps, do with a bit more length.) The straight sides means it could be more fitted through the upper body, but is grand as a relaxed fit hoodie. I learnt the amount of ease I need to add to the ankles of the joggers is dependent on the stretch in the fabric. This sweatshirt is less stretchy than the purple of v.2. Some might even say it has no stretch fibres at all (oops). But I did just about manage to stretch it the required 35% in the instructions. It makes the fit quite snug all the way through the lower legs, and slimmer fitting over all. Something to keep in mind if I make another pair.
It was only when I reached the point of trying them on that I noticed the colour is uneasily close to school uniform grey. The matching halves certainly don't help. And while I've no problem with double-jersey, much like double-denim it is easier on the eye when top and bottom are in different colours. So despite finally making myself the 'matching' set, I'm not sure how often I'll actually wear them together. (I say matching, but the joggers have self-fabric cuffs and waistband, and the hoodie uses just seam casings as a finish, not that matchy.) But glad to be able to check this off the list!
I made this up with a Recycled Jogging Fabric - Dark Grey Melange (56% recycled cotton, 44% polyester), 280g/m2 weight sweatshirt fabric, Gütermann thread colour 36, in recycled polyester. And it used a lot of thread. Over 100m. (Getting more of this thread is not easy, it isn't readily available at all Gütermann stockists yet.) Twin-needled along the hood, the pocket edges, the waist hem, and the sleeves hems. A narrow zigzag stretch stitch most other places, with straight stitch along the zip. Seams finished on overlocker/serger.
I used a double-ended zipper, that was much too long, so had to pull out some teeth with pliers to cut off the extra length. The pockets are off-set from each other by less-than a quarter-inch. I unpicked, and redid one side, once, and didn't fancy doing it again. The pockets are both slightly off-set, in the direction of the stitching. Next time it would be a good idea to use that Walking Foot to see if it helps. I learnt how to properly encase the zipper tails. Also, I added machine tacks at each open corner of the pockets. It's my new favourite thing, I'll be reinforcing all the things now. I made the drawstring casing around the hood (button-holes and all), but I won't be adding a drawstring. I added elastic to the sleeves, but not the waist.
Seamwork's Rudy hoodie, finished, front
Photo by chebe
We're already familiar with Seamwork's Mel, the joggers I've made before. For this version, same size 18, but I added 1" to the length at the ankle, and added 1" to the width of each of the ankles (tapered from the calves) as compared to the base pattern used in v.1, and +1" length, but -1" width as compared to v.2.
Same sweatshirt fabric, same thread, as above. I managed to stretch/gather the waistband properly this time. I included the drawstring button-holes on the waistband, but won't be using them. Twin-needled along the pockets fronts, only. Machine tacked the pocket corners. Used a triple chain stitch everywhere else (twice around the crotch) that is supposed to be strong and stretchy. Seams finished on overlocker/serger.
Seamwork's Mel joggers, finished, front
Photo by chebe
The hoodie has a nice ease at the hem, which hits about the top of my pelvic bones. (I could, perhaps, do with a bit more length.) The straight sides means it could be more fitted through the upper body, but is grand as a relaxed fit hoodie. I learnt the amount of ease I need to add to the ankles of the joggers is dependent on the stretch in the fabric. This sweatshirt is less stretchy than the purple of v.2. Some might even say it has no stretch fibres at all (oops). But I did just about manage to stretch it the required 35% in the instructions. It makes the fit quite snug all the way through the lower legs, and slimmer fitting over all. Something to keep in mind if I make another pair.
It was only when I reached the point of trying them on that I noticed the colour is uneasily close to school uniform grey. The matching halves certainly don't help. And while I've no problem with double-jersey, much like double-denim it is easier on the eye when top and bottom are in different colours. So despite finally making myself the 'matching' set, I'm not sure how often I'll actually wear them together. (I say matching, but the joggers have self-fabric cuffs and waistband, and the hoodie uses just seam casings as a finish, not that matchy.) But glad to be able to check this off the list!
Finished Rudy and Mel, side-by-side
Photo by chebe
