Seamwork Mel joggers, v.4

2024-Sep-25, Wednesday 12:00 am
A while back I had an idea; "Very late pandemic meets teetering on the edge of another world war, and leaving the house is increasingly difficult." Which translates to a combat/cargo trousers amount of pockets, a punky/gothy number of superfluous bondage straps, but make it pandemic formal.

Details )


Front view of black French Terry joggers, with two slash pockets, two patch pockets, and four black d-rings with four blacks, hanging from a black hanger, against a white wardrobe.

Finished Mel joggers, front view
Photo by [personal profile] chebe

Seamwork's Rudy is a raglan sleeve hoodie, with patch pouch pocket. The Bonus adds a centre front zipper. It is a relaxed fit, with elastic at the wrists and hem, through the hem casings, no cuffs. I went with a Misses size 16, but concerned by the finished garment sweep measurement, I added 2" to the width. To avoid any complicated interactions with the sleeves I added a half-inch to both centre-front seams, and to the centre-back fold. As well as slashing up the back of the hood sides (where the seam allowance stops towards the back), and spreading them a half-inch each side as well. And not to forget the pockets, added a half-inch to each of the centre-front edges as well.

Details )


On the left; zipper hoodie with raglan sleeves, in a dark grey sweatshirt material. On the right; elasticated-waist joggers, in a dark grey sweatshirt material. Both are hanging from clothes hangers against a room divider (white with black frame).

Finished Rudy and Mel, side-by-side
Photo by [personal profile] chebe

I finally got around to making another version of Seamwork's Mel joggers. Last time I didn't expect them to turn out so well, so I skipped a few steps (like using matching thread). This time I did everything as specified.

Same size 18 as before, I didn't adjust the length, but I did add 2" to the width of each of the ankles (tapered from the calves) for comfort.

I used this lovely dark purple fabric. I can't find the receipt, so I don't know the fibre content of the material, but it's a kind of sweatshirt fabric, and is fuzzy on the inside. Probably polyester, possibly poly-cotton, with some elastane. The thread is a perfect match, and is Gütermann thread colour 257.

This pattern mostly wants you to serge/overlock all the seams. At some point I realised they probably mean a 4-thread serge/overlock stitch. I have my machine set up in 3-thread arrangement, for seam finishing, and by the fact that all my serging/overlocking uses black thread, you might have noticed that I try not to change things unless I have to. So for the centre-front and centre-back seams I stitched two lines of narrow zigzag before finishing the seams in the serger/overlocker. For the in-seam I ran one line of narrow zigzag, but around the crotch area added a second line of narrow zigzag, for reinforcement, before serging/overlocking. I also added one line of narrow zigzag to the waistband seam and cuffs, before serging/overlocking. The rest were just serged/overlocked.

I used some scrap poly-cotton woven instead of interfacing to reinforce the fabric when adding buttonholes for the drawstring channel, and it worked really well. Running the two lines of narrow zigzags around the waistband is hard on the hands. I needed to not only use two hands to hold the fabric, but also to stretch the elastic and keep it all under tension and flat. Twice. Ouch. But seeing how badly the elastic held up in the first version I knew I had to do it. (And after this I did the same to version 1, definitely an improvement.) It took me a moment to figure out how to do it well, so the distribution of the fullness of the fabric on the front waistband is not great. (The camera also really didn't want to focus on this colour, so apologies for the blurriness.)

It fits easily, like the previous version. The extra looseness is allowing the legs to ride up more, so it's either reduce some of the width I added to the ankles, or add some to the length in the legs. The thread where the pockets meet the side-seams is coming loose too, so will reinforce that next time.


Dark purple sweatpants joggers, hanging from a black hanger, against a white wardrobe.

Finished Mel joggers
Photo by [personal profile] chebe

Seamwork Mel joggers

2021-Apr-28, Wednesday 06:00 pm
Seamwork's Mel are knit joggers. I never wore joggers before the pandemic, and now I almost live in them. But also, because they are loose fitting they are the perfect way to start learning to make trousers that fit me. I used a printed sweatshirt fabric that is fuzzy on the inside. I cannot overstate just how comfortable this fabric is. It's described as a polyester and cotton fabric with 4% elastan. With wrong sides together is surprisingly slippy.

I made them in a size 18, which falls into Curvy pattern proportions. The back is wider than the front (just like well fitting trouser places like Torrid) so the side seams stay in the correct place and nothing is squished. The model and the illustrations show the lower leg to be loose, but they are slim fitting on me. Which is an improvement, as I often find ankle/calf fit much too narrow. (That fabric stretch comes in useful on the self-fabric cuffs.) The thighs and hips are quite roomy. And there are generous pockets! The waistband is elasticated, and you're supposed to sew two runs of stitching around the waistband that will act as drawstring channelling, but I'm not a drawstring person. I added the button-holes (almost gouging holes in the fabric in the process) just in case I change my mind, but the elastic is doing the job so far.

Most of the assembly is done with an overlocker/serger, but there is some top-stitching on the pockets, button-holes, and waistband casing (had I done any). My black thread stands out a lot, and to be honest, I hadn't expected these to turn out so well on the first go, so I simply didn't bother changing the thread colour to something more appropriate. The pattern is drafted for someone 5" taller than me, but I feel there might only be 2" I could easily loose in the length. I am shocked that my first step into making trousers has gone so well, and I've gladly worn these a lot since making them up. (They definitely look better on than on the hanger.)



Seamwork's Mel joggers, finished, front
Photo by [personal profile] chebe

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