Burda Smoking Trousers
2023-Aug-22, Tuesday 04:30 pm![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
chebeThe fabric choice in the top was driven by the fabrics I wanted to use in the trousers. The trousers in question being a soft tuxedo-style; BurdaStyle Smoking Trousers (Plus Size), March 2013, numbered 140B, (same pdf as the 'Marlene (as in Dietrich) Trousers'). The provided image doesn't really show anything, so let me describe them. These are a non-stretch straight-leg pattern to be made up in crepe. It closes with an invisble zipper in the centre-back, and there are back waist darts. The (front) pockets are curved, and the waistband has a two-overlapping-at-centre-front-curved-pieces detail, that is actually sewn together, with two buttons as just decoration. The pattern also has optional side stripes, which it suggests to use a sequin fabric with.
Based on measurements I traced a size 50. I had never used a Burda pattern before, so this was another learning experience. (Still on a tight deadline. I guess that's just how I roll.)
Burda patterns don't include seam allowance. So after/as you trace your size you need to add the seam allowance yourself. This is a tedious job, so I sought out a tool to help me. I 3D printed this tracing pencil holder (sliced apart the two pieces, rotated to sit on the print bed). But this is only 1cm, ~3/8" width, so I tweaked the model to be 1.5cm, ~5/8" width, and printed both of them. Which made adding the necessary seam allowances much less intimidating.
Another Burda feature is that the patterns are compact. (I blame the magazine.) The pocket pieces are on top of each other, so you have to trace them twice, following different seam lines. But first you need to realise that that's what you're supposed to do.
Burda design for 5'6"/~168cm height, but they also provide detailed measurements, so I know that their 'side leg length' is 106cm. My 'outseam' is 105cm, meaning all the height difference happens from my waist up. So I didn't alter the length of the trousers at all.
I made one toile in canvas, and it was a perfect fit. The crotch depth is among the best I have ever experienced, across off-the-rack and home-made. I could hardly believe it.
The pattern wants you to appliquƩ the contrast fabric on top of the crepe. But I wanted proper satin strips, so I cut out the section for the bands and added seam allowance on both sides, and to the new trouser seam. (Something I'm very comfortable with doing now.)
Side seam stitching was a bit snug in the stiff toile fabric, so I added 1cm to the back side seams (where the band meets the back trouser piece), and matching waistband piece, for a total extra 2cm width. I also added an extra 1cm to the top of the front trouser piece (and matching waistband piece) for a little extra comfort when eating a lot. But that's it.
I cut these out of the same fabric as the top; Luxury Crepe Black Dress Fabric (100% polyester), and Duchesse Satin Classic Black Fabric (100% polyester) for the side bands.
Another Burda complication, is that the instructions are brief, and evidently translated. They don't always make sense to me, using unexpected words and phrasing. I'm still not sure how exactly the waistband was supposed to go together, but I made it work.
There is a lot of hand-sewing to finish. I naughtily machined the hems, but did hand-stitch the inner waistbands in place. I made a mistake, the morning of the event I needed the trousers for, and put the zipper in too low; lining it up with the bottom of the waistband, instead of the top. Instead of unpicking I used a hook-and-eye above the zip, and an adjustable trouser bar at the top of the waistband to hold it altogether, and give me more fit fine-tuning options.
In the crepe the trousers sit lower than in the canvas. I'm not sure if it's just the different material, the extra width I added, or the zip mix up, that is the cause. Likely a mix of all three. Which is fine, but means the length is definitely for wearing with heels. If I wanted to wear flats I'd need to shorten the leg length an inch or so. In the end I made these in just three half-days. The trousers don't look like much on the hanger, but properly filled they drape to perfection. And, of course, pair perfectly with the co-ordinating top. I'm seriously impressed with this cut. Burda rate this pattern as a difficulty of 2/4 asterisks, so I guess I'm half-way there.
The pattern
Based on measurements I traced a size 50. I had never used a Burda pattern before, so this was another learning experience. (Still on a tight deadline. I guess that's just how I roll.)
Burda patterns don't include seam allowance. So after/as you trace your size you need to add the seam allowance yourself. This is a tedious job, so I sought out a tool to help me. I 3D printed this tracing pencil holder (sliced apart the two pieces, rotated to sit on the print bed). But this is only 1cm, ~3/8" width, so I tweaked the model to be 1.5cm, ~5/8" width, and printed both of them. Which made adding the necessary seam allowances much less intimidating.
3d printed tracing pencil holder
Photo by chebe
Another Burda feature is that the patterns are compact. (I blame the magazine.) The pocket pieces are on top of each other, so you have to trace them twice, following different seam lines. But first you need to realise that that's what you're supposed to do.
Burda design for 5'6"/~168cm height, but they also provide detailed measurements, so I know that their 'side leg length' is 106cm. My 'outseam' is 105cm, meaning all the height difference happens from my waist up. So I didn't alter the length of the trousers at all.
I made one toile in canvas, and it was a perfect fit. The crotch depth is among the best I have ever experienced, across off-the-rack and home-made. I could hardly believe it.
The pattern wants you to appliquƩ the contrast fabric on top of the crepe. But I wanted proper satin strips, so I cut out the section for the bands and added seam allowance on both sides, and to the new trouser seam. (Something I'm very comfortable with doing now.)
Side seam stitching was a bit snug in the stiff toile fabric, so I added 1cm to the back side seams (where the band meets the back trouser piece), and matching waistband piece, for a total extra 2cm width. I also added an extra 1cm to the top of the front trouser piece (and matching waistband piece) for a little extra comfort when eating a lot. But that's it.
Construction
I cut these out of the same fabric as the top; Luxury Crepe Black Dress Fabric (100% polyester), and Duchesse Satin Classic Black Fabric (100% polyester) for the side bands.
Another Burda complication, is that the instructions are brief, and evidently translated. They don't always make sense to me, using unexpected words and phrasing. I'm still not sure how exactly the waistband was supposed to go together, but I made it work.
There is a lot of hand-sewing to finish. I naughtily machined the hems, but did hand-stitch the inner waistbands in place. I made a mistake, the morning of the event I needed the trousers for, and put the zipper in too low; lining it up with the bottom of the waistband, instead of the top. Instead of unpicking I used a hook-and-eye above the zip, and an adjustable trouser bar at the top of the waistband to hold it altogether, and give me more fit fine-tuning options.
In the crepe the trousers sit lower than in the canvas. I'm not sure if it's just the different material, the extra width I added, or the zip mix up, that is the cause. Likely a mix of all three. Which is fine, but means the length is definitely for wearing with heels. If I wanted to wear flats I'd need to shorten the leg length an inch or so. In the end I made these in just three half-days. The trousers don't look like much on the hanger, but properly filled they drape to perfection. And, of course, pair perfectly with the co-ordinating top. I'm seriously impressed with this cut. Burda rate this pattern as a difficulty of 2/4 asterisks, so I guess I'm half-way there.
Burda Smoking Trousers, finished, back view
Photo by chebe
Burda Smoking Trousers, finished, front view
Photo by chebe
Finally! the trouser post I've been waiting for
Date: 2023-08-22 08:14 pm (UTC)I bet they looked great with the top in the post before!
Tree
Re: Finally! the trouser post I've been waiting for
Date: 2023-08-22 08:51 pm (UTC)Re: Finally! the trouser post I've been waiting for
Date: 2023-08-22 09:06 pm (UTC)