Legend Sisters The Hazel Skirt
2024-Oct-16, Wednesday 12:00 am![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
chebeThe Hazel Skirt is a hi-lo full skirt, with different length and waist options. I went with the high-waist, without the straps, with the shorter length skirt. I toiled the waistband, in size Mushroom, and then cut out a size Diamond.
I hate vanity sizing. I understand, and respect, the motivation for it. But it's ultimately just really uninformative. I can't tell you how many times I forgot what random thing was supposed to represent the lines I wanted. It's a much better use of time and energy to let go of any stigma you have about what the numbers mean. They're just numbers, as arbitrary as any other symbol that you choose to represent the sets of lines. Except they have an in-built sequence, and are easier to remember. Sew often enough and all the numbers get mixed up and mean nothing about you as a person. Only you can set yourself free from those thoughts.
Anyway, I'm using a high gloss PVC in black, PVC front, polyester backing. It's heavy, and quite stiff. I'm only lining the waistband, using Duchess Satin in purple, 100% Polyester, 175gsm, for both the lining, and in-seam pockets. The satin is interfaced, with stiff woven fusible interfacing, in black. (When fusing interfacing I stack kitchen paper, fabric, then interfacing glue-side-down, so any excess sticks to the tissue instead of the ironing board. But this kitchen paper had a strong embossed pattern, so now too does my lining.)
As a closure I used a long invisible zipper, in black, and a decorative filigree hook and eye fastening in black nickel, just in case.
Between the polyester backing on the pvc and the lining, the only time I had to stitch on the sticky side of the pvc was when top-stitching the hem. I used my Teflon sewing machine foot and it went swimmingly. And of course I used black thread throughout.
The zipper was not fun, and it's far from perfect, but it works. The waistline seams don't always meet up, but the top of the waistband, and the bottom of the zipper do, so that's good enough for me. The rest is small differences in seam allowances adding up. Which is unsurprising given how unwieldy this was to wrangle through the machine. A different fabric would make that kind of precision much easier.
Overall the skirt is a bit big, which makes me really glad I sized down from the initial toile. But it stays up, and it's better to be too roomy, in a fabric this unyielding. It's quite comfortable, but I think I'll go down to a *checks notes* size Flower *sigh* next time. I might also see about straightening the top of the waist seams, instead of flaring out. (I suspect the smallest part of me is not my natural waist, but rather my underbust.) The benefits of using this material is that it has enough tension to actually detectably vibrate to the music on a night out, and when someone spills a drink on you it just wipes off. The downsides are mostly that I'm not used to the sheer volume of a full skirt. But it definitely delivers drama.
I hate vanity sizing. I understand, and respect, the motivation for it. But it's ultimately just really uninformative. I can't tell you how many times I forgot what random thing was supposed to represent the lines I wanted. It's a much better use of time and energy to let go of any stigma you have about what the numbers mean. They're just numbers, as arbitrary as any other symbol that you choose to represent the sets of lines. Except they have an in-built sequence, and are easier to remember. Sew often enough and all the numbers get mixed up and mean nothing about you as a person. Only you can set yourself free from those thoughts.
Anyway, I'm using a high gloss PVC in black, PVC front, polyester backing. It's heavy, and quite stiff. I'm only lining the waistband, using Duchess Satin in purple, 100% Polyester, 175gsm, for both the lining, and in-seam pockets. The satin is interfaced, with stiff woven fusible interfacing, in black. (When fusing interfacing I stack kitchen paper, fabric, then interfacing glue-side-down, so any excess sticks to the tissue instead of the ironing board. But this kitchen paper had a strong embossed pattern, so now too does my lining.)
As a closure I used a long invisible zipper, in black, and a decorative filigree hook and eye fastening in black nickel, just in case.
Hazel skirt, finished, unzipped, detail view of lining
Photo by chebe
Between the polyester backing on the pvc and the lining, the only time I had to stitch on the sticky side of the pvc was when top-stitching the hem. I used my Teflon sewing machine foot and it went swimmingly. And of course I used black thread throughout.
The zipper was not fun, and it's far from perfect, but it works. The waistline seams don't always meet up, but the top of the waistband, and the bottom of the zipper do, so that's good enough for me. The rest is small differences in seam allowances adding up. Which is unsurprising given how unwieldy this was to wrangle through the machine. A different fabric would make that kind of precision much easier.
Overall the skirt is a bit big, which makes me really glad I sized down from the initial toile. But it stays up, and it's better to be too roomy, in a fabric this unyielding. It's quite comfortable, but I think I'll go down to a *checks notes* size Flower *sigh* next time. I might also see about straightening the top of the waist seams, instead of flaring out. (I suspect the smallest part of me is not my natural waist, but rather my underbust.) The benefits of using this material is that it has enough tension to actually detectably vibrate to the music on a night out, and when someone spills a drink on you it just wipes off. The downsides are mostly that I'm not used to the sheer volume of a full skirt. But it definitely delivers drama.
Hazel skirt, finished, back view, in black pvc
Photo by chebe
Hazel skirt, finished, front view, in black pvc
Photo by chebe
