Vogue V1944 (2023), view b, oversized shirt
2025-Jul-09, Wednesday 12:00 pm![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
chebeVogue V1944 is, well, I'm not sure how to describe it. It's a strange woven collection of bias cut skirt, with two dropped shoulder shirt-inspired top options, one both fitted and cropped. I was interested in view b; the boxy oversized shirt.
But being a Vogue pattern, sizing is not straight forward. The measurements corresponding to the sizes are only shown on the envelope flap (not visible in the online envelope scans), and the useful finished garment measurements are typically only to be found on the pattern tissue itself. Being at the edges of the size range is quite risky. Last time I made a Vogue, I found the sizing ran large, and that a size 22 was the better starting point for me. Which is just as well, as size 22 is the maximum size available for this pattern. A size 22 is given as bust 112cm, waist 94cm. This would not fit me. But I'm looking at a boxy oversized shirt. So, I took the gamble. Turns out the finished garment measurements for view b are bust 132cm, waist 128cm. This is 20cm and 34cm of combined wearing and style ease. That should be plenty.
For the fabric I chose a Viscose Challis, 100% viscose, 100gsm, in a daisy print. Continuing with my attempt to learn how to work with prints. This fabric is lovely in the hand, and against the skin. A great drape and flowy, but still opaque. If a bit shifty. And it takes a great press. This is the exact fabric all these kind of oversized shirts should be. However, it seems to only come in narrow width yardage. The fronts of this pattern are self-faced, on top of being oversized, so extra extra wide, which made fitting on the narrow yardage, while attempting pattern matching a challenge.
Fusible interfacing (in black) is required for the collar and collar stand facings. I'm delighted it's a proper collar with a stand and not a roll over collar. Otherwise all that's needed is thread (in black), and seven half-inch buttons.
All seams are enclosed, or rolled hems, except for the side seams (in the body and the sleeves), and the armscyes. The pattern provides zero guidance on how to finish these seams. But it did want me to hem the top, before finishing the open slits in the side seams. I disagreed, and finished the side seams with a simple clean finish (aka turn and stitch finish), first, then hemmed the body and sleeves. But for the armscyes I was at a loss for any option other than bias binding, so I resorted to overlocking/serging them (I can always bind them later). My twice rolled hems are not the most even, so I ran two parallel lines of straight top-stitch to ensure I caught it all.
I almost perfectly matched the print along the two front pieces down the centre-front, taking the self-facing width into account. However, I forgot it was an overlapping button closure, so it doesn't match up at all when closed. Sigh. The back yoke has a curve to it, so I knew I wouldn't be able to match it fully, and focused on the centre-back column. But not only is that slightly off, but it also made apparent that the daisies seem to have a skew direction, and I didn't match that well.
At least the collar, and collar stand, worked out pretty well. I did pay a lot of attention to the collar pieces to ensure a symmetrical result, and that came out fairly spot on. I didn't trim my seams in the collar stand, so it is quite thick and stands proud when fully buttoned, which I love. But it was touch and go whether my machine would be able to buttonhole it without snapping a needle. There are also a couple of steps that require hand slip-stitching (the button facings, and the colar stand), but with a fabric like this it's the right choice and I didn't mind too much.
This is a joy to wear. And hot weather appropriate. The shorter length through the body is much better on me. I hope to make more, whenever I encounter the right kind of fabric.
But being a Vogue pattern, sizing is not straight forward. The measurements corresponding to the sizes are only shown on the envelope flap (not visible in the online envelope scans), and the useful finished garment measurements are typically only to be found on the pattern tissue itself. Being at the edges of the size range is quite risky. Last time I made a Vogue, I found the sizing ran large, and that a size 22 was the better starting point for me. Which is just as well, as size 22 is the maximum size available for this pattern. A size 22 is given as bust 112cm, waist 94cm. This would not fit me. But I'm looking at a boxy oversized shirt. So, I took the gamble. Turns out the finished garment measurements for view b are bust 132cm, waist 128cm. This is 20cm and 34cm of combined wearing and style ease. That should be plenty.
For the fabric I chose a Viscose Challis, 100% viscose, 100gsm, in a daisy print. Continuing with my attempt to learn how to work with prints. This fabric is lovely in the hand, and against the skin. A great drape and flowy, but still opaque. If a bit shifty. And it takes a great press. This is the exact fabric all these kind of oversized shirts should be. However, it seems to only come in narrow width yardage. The fronts of this pattern are self-faced, on top of being oversized, so extra extra wide, which made fitting on the narrow yardage, while attempting pattern matching a challenge.
Fusible interfacing (in black) is required for the collar and collar stand facings. I'm delighted it's a proper collar with a stand and not a roll over collar. Otherwise all that's needed is thread (in black), and seven half-inch buttons.
All seams are enclosed, or rolled hems, except for the side seams (in the body and the sleeves), and the armscyes. The pattern provides zero guidance on how to finish these seams. But it did want me to hem the top, before finishing the open slits in the side seams. I disagreed, and finished the side seams with a simple clean finish (aka turn and stitch finish), first, then hemmed the body and sleeves. But for the armscyes I was at a loss for any option other than bias binding, so I resorted to overlocking/serging them (I can always bind them later). My twice rolled hems are not the most even, so I ran two parallel lines of straight top-stitch to ensure I caught it all.
I almost perfectly matched the print along the two front pieces down the centre-front, taking the self-facing width into account. However, I forgot it was an overlapping button closure, so it doesn't match up at all when closed. Sigh. The back yoke has a curve to it, so I knew I wouldn't be able to match it fully, and focused on the centre-back column. But not only is that slightly off, but it also made apparent that the daisies seem to have a skew direction, and I didn't match that well.
At least the collar, and collar stand, worked out pretty well. I did pay a lot of attention to the collar pieces to ensure a symmetrical result, and that came out fairly spot on. I didn't trim my seams in the collar stand, so it is quite thick and stands proud when fully buttoned, which I love. But it was touch and go whether my machine would be able to buttonhole it without snapping a needle. There are also a couple of steps that require hand slip-stitching (the button facings, and the colar stand), but with a fabric like this it's the right choice and I didn't mind too much.
This is a joy to wear. And hot weather appropriate. The shorter length through the body is much better on me. I hope to make more, whenever I encounter the right kind of fabric.
Finished, back
Photo by chebe
Finished, front
Photo by chebe
