Digital Sparkle Collar

2025-Apr-02, Wednesday 01:00 am
History )

Collar )

Circuit )

Attachment )

Putting it all together )

Finishing touches )

Coding )

Testing )


Photo of the neopixel collar, closed, and turned on, with four wires meeting in the middle, leading to the Gemma in a translucent bright green 3d printed circular case, inside yet another in a translucent bright green 3d printed circular case, with the LEDs in various shades of green, yellow, white, and off.

Digital Sparkle Collar, with more robust case situation
Photo by [personal profile] chebe

Divoom Pixoo Slingbag is nice looking bag, with a 16x16 RGB LED screen in it. I was curious and wanted to look inside. (I must caution you if you buy one for yourself; there are always discounts, don't pay full price. And their after-sales marketing is often overwhelming.)

The bag is constructed well, of decent quality materials. The LED grid works very well. The app for it, on the other hand, is absolute hell. Other people have made alternative clients for them, like the DivoomClient for ESP32, Divoom Timebox Evo, but the only one I personally tried out was the Windows Diwoom client. Which worked pretty well, but made me realise the bluetooth communication isn't protected at all. If there isn't a client currently connected to the bag, there's nothing stopping anyone else from connecting and changing the displayed image. So clearly the hardware had to come out.

Details )


Photo of the outside of the bag, in regular light, with the Rainbow animation playing.

Outside view of the bag, new display in place, running Rainbow example
Photo by [personal profile] chebe



This bag is quite eye-catching, and people have asked me questions about it whenever I've brought it out. I look forward to customising the animations, eventually. There are repos that will decode the actual animations from the app, but there doesn't seem to be a ready library for implementing them in MicroPython (I saw a promising one for CircuitPython, which alas is not MircroPython), but I'll keep investigating. Also, the original display is still functional, so that might find a use somewhere that isn't public.
Some time ago I got myself an Adafruit LED Glasses Starter Kit. But other than turning it on and running the example code I hadn't done much with it. Then with the return of Congress I, of course, wanted all the LEDs, so I dug it out. First things first, how am I going to wear this?

Physical details )


View, from the wearer's point of view, of my glasses, with the LED front panel attached via overclip nose-bridge, and driver case attached via velcro to the left arm.

Front panel and driver attached to my glasses
Photo by [personal profile] chebe



Code details )
I'm not of an Alpine culture, I didn't know what a Krampus was, but I mean look at how cool this Merry Krampus surface-mount soldering kit looks! I wanted it. (It's also available on Tindie, but the Challenge version seems permanently sold out.) I found and ordered it last year, but it arrived in January, so I put it in a drawer until recently. I got the Challenge version, because a little challenge in your life can be good for you.

Slight hitch being, I didn't have any surface-mount soldering tools. So I had at the kit with my regular soldering tools. The instructions are thorough, and it even comes with a programmer that you need to assemble. But when I got to the point where I could program the board it just wasn't working. The LEDs at the eyes would blink, but then the Arduino IDE would complain that it couldn't communicate with the board. I emailed the creators, and was surprised when they replied, with even more detailed info to help me through the process! Seriously, they are lovely people.

I examined the circuit diagrams, figured out which pins on the board were which on the diagrams. I multi-metred my way through all the connections. It all seemed good. The next step was removing the transistors. I did not fancy that with my standard soldering iron, so I ordered a SMD Repair station (a.k.a. a very hot air gun). Before trying to remove the components I hit every single solder joint with the hot air. I couldn't see anything happening, but the plastic parts of the switches are very toasted, so stuff was happening. Then I tried programming the board, and it worked first time! My guess is I had made connections (multi-metre said so) but that they weren't good enough. Reflowing the solder must have helped strengthen the connections. After that you can add decorations and ways to attach the board to things/you. (There is also the challenge of changing the programming, but I might save that for next year.)

Pictures )


Front view of a fancy circuit board in the shape of Krampus head, horns and everything. Black board with grey and silver designs, and translucent sections left bare for the eyes and tongue, glowing red. Four brass rings are attached, two for earrings, two at the tips of the horns, which are attached to a brass chain

Finished, and programmed board, all lit up
Photo by [personal profile] chebe




Of course, if you don't enjoy this kind of challenge you could buy the presoldered version, or even the solderless version, which is new this year. But as frustrating as it was doing this kit without the proper tools, it really does feel like an achievement to have it working!
So I'm minding my own (read: entire world's) business on twitter when a tweet by [twitter.com profile] AtelDsign enters my feed. Geometric 3D printed baubles, that are printed on fabric! I had to try them!

Details )




All four geometric shape baubles lit up with red LEDs
Photo by [personal profile] chebe

CircuiTree of Lights

2020-Dec-13, Sunday 05:20 pm
Three years ago I posted about a little Tree of Lights that consisted of conductive paint and auto-changing RGB LEDs. Over the years I had to mend some of the connections with wire glue. But, again, this year, I found that most of the connections, all but one actually, had broken. The LED legs had physically broken the traces by pulling away from the tree-form.

So I gave in and soldered silicon wire between all the connections. As wire has much lower resistance I needed to add resistors as well. I also added proper wire connectors for ease of adding power, and added so much hot glue to try and hide the wires in the pre-existing paint traces. The main benefit of the wires is that now the whole thing runs happily off 3Vs, whereas before I was struggling to get half-decent brightness with 9Vs.

Photos )
Time to play with some super bright LEDs! (Just remember; do not look directly at them while powered.)

Kitronik have some lovely 3W LEDs (with unfortunate name) in a star shape for heat dissipation. They provide a datasheet with example circuit for 5V power source. It requires 2.2 ohm power resistors, which are new to me. But when I tried regular resistors there was a lot of smoke, so they are definitely required.

I want to control the lights from a lower voltage micro-controller, so I'm going to need some N-channel MOSFETs. This is my first time using these. The Data pin (from the Arduino) acts a switch to complete the higher power circuit that lights up the LED.

All together the circuit looks a bit like this.

Images )
A long time ago, during Makevember I made a galvanised coated garden wire shamrock, for use as a sign at events. Here it is at Congress. To make it I printed the shape I wanted on A4 paper, put that on top of some cardboard, and used a pattern tracing wheel to transfer the outline to the cardboard. Then I cut the cardboard along that outline. And used pliers to bend and shape the wire to follow the outline of the cardboard shape. Including some feet so it could stand.

Process )



Lit up LED shamrock sign, brightest setting
Photo by [personal profile] chebe

The LilyPad Accelerometer (ADXL335). I've been trying to use this for over ten years. Turns out I've misunderstood what it measures for 10 years. I had partial success with just the x-axis using Leah Buechley's code, but it has since disappeared, so I can't even be sure what it did.

I was trying to do something else, and the numbers, very strangely kept coming out to an exact 100.0, which is very wrong. So I went back to make sure the accelerometer was giving me a full value range. Which it didn't seem to be, so I went researching and found this excellent tutorial.

Although the accelerometer gives you raw values between 0 and 1023 on an analog read, it actually measures gravity acting on it as it moves around in 3D space. Converting the raw to Gs is straight-forward;
long xAcceleration = map(xRawPinValue, 0, 1023, -3.0, 3.0);

To then turn this into a colour, simply, you could map the range onto -255 to +255 (the polarity demonstrating direction of change), and then reducing that to just value of change;
int xRed = map(xAcceleration, -3.0, 3.0, -255, 255);
int absoluteXRed = abs(xRed);


Do the same for the y and z. Write to RGB LED/pixel of your choice. (Warning; movement in video is quite sudden.)

Short video )

Sorry for the rough prototype version, I dismantled the version I made up for parts to make my tiara.

Other than light-up gloves, this could be used for rough gesture control, but doesn't give me the kind of information I needed for the thing I was trying to do as is.

Time Cuboid

2020-Apr-28, Tuesday 08:20 pm
I find myself, like many of us, sitting at my desk a lot. I sit there for work. I sit there again for the many video and/or voice socials that have been set up. I sit there to play games or watch films. I even clear off the computer stuff and sit there to solder and work on projects. I am, in fact, sitting there now as I write this. So basically, I sit there a lot. And it got so that I found it difficult to know what time it was, whether early or late, start of the day, or end. I know, I thought, possibly aloud, no-one will ever know, I need a clock.

But I didn't want to go buying lots of unnecessary things, or wait until my usual suppliers were back in full swing. So I dug around in the piles of boxes that comprise my electronics stash. Back at GaelHack (seven years ago) I started on a clock, but it never left the breadboard. I dusted that off, and found most of what else I needed.

Making it all fit together )

Given the purpose of the device, and age of most of the components, I had half a mind to refer to this as a Time Capsule, but Time Cuboid seems more self-explanatory.
Overall it looks something like this;



Time Cuboid, on
Photo by [personal profile] chebe

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