Busy hands | Disquiet mind

Seamwork's Shelly are classic style leggings, with no seams down the outside of the legs, and gussets (that extend to the knees) for comfortable fit. I made mine in a cute planet print jersey of 95% cotton, 5% elastic. The background is a dark-blue/navy, and the planets are off-white, some of which have Saturn-style rings in silver glitter around them. The fact that it's printed means it isn't the best choice for leggings generally, but for practice fitting leggings it's perfect, because the more the fabric stretches the more of the off-white base fabric colour is visible.

So, let's talk about fit, baby. I went with a base size of XL (16-18) based on waist (being at the larger end of the range) and hip (being at the smaller end of the range) measurements. I measured my calves against the pattern, guessing at what the fabric stretch would give me, and saw that an XL would absolutely not fit. I graded the pattern to 2X at the calves (and lower). Leading to a ~1.5X from the crotch through to above the calves.

If you're sewing these up with an overlocker/serger absolutely reinforce the seams first. I had to go back over many of them with a narrow zig-zag/stretch stitch to stop them unravelling.

( Photos )

Then I finally got to try them on. The fit through the legs/calves is great. The ankle is even a little loose, but I'm okay with that. The fabric feels comfortably taut, but not restricting. With loose fabric behind the knee. And first time too! Astounding. But then I wore them for a while. And found that when doing terribly active things, like walking up the stairs, the waist would end up most-way down my arse. So I pinched out the excess at the waistband. 9cm either side of the back seam. 18cms total. That's 7 inches. I graduated from the point at the top of the waistband to the bottom, and then rounded the join off, trimming a little corner off the leg pieces as well to avoid a point. Now they don't fall down when I walk up stairs, but there is still a little too much movement. I don't want to remove more width though, because I won't be able to get them up over my hips. Not sure what I can do short of adding a zip. But for leisurely activities they are fine and quite comfortable.

The length does feel a bit short, hitting just above the ankle bones. That is where it hits on the pattern model too, but I'd add a couple inches if I make these again.

To sum up, that's a waistband graduated from a Medium (very roughly) to an XL through the hips, an ~1.5X through the thighs/knees to 2X at the calves/ankles. This is not a fault of the pattern. I have always had an extra-ordinarily difficult time getting trousers to fit me. Well, except when wide-legged jeans were available. Those were great times. ... And also my next big sewing project.

It's okay, my sewing machine and I are friends again. I had been using 'universal' bobbins, but it turns out they don't fit Janome. I bought some generic brand ones that mostly fit, just a millimetre or so off. The problem is less frequent now. But every so often I hear a clatter, as the bobbin thread comes out of the guides and loses all tension control. Now that I know, I can listen attentively, and tend to her when she acts up.

Have you seen Seamwork? I'm enjoying the monthly appearance of quick, casual patterns in my inbox. And while I'll never make all of them, learning about the techniques is interesting. One of the patterns with issue two was Manila, a pair of leggings. This, I thought, fits in with my sew-knits intention, and is an easy introduction to trousers. So I got out my spotted fabric, and had a go. (You'll be glad to know, dear readers, that this is the last of that spotted fabric! Newer colours and patterns await us both.)

Two legs, front and back pieces each. A covered elastic waistband, and some cute tulip cuffs. Add it all together and you get a garment with no hems! My absolute favourite kind! Very easy to make up (once your machine behaves). Fit-wise; I need to allow more width in the calves, and take out both width and height in the belly. But, regardless, very comfortable. Hope to make again.

( Couple of pictures )