McCall's 7952 (1995) Vest (aka Waistcoat)
2023-Aug-29, Tuesday 12:30 pm![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
chebeIn my quest for the perfect waistcoat I came across McCall's 7952 (1995) (there are at least four different patterns numbered 7952, from 1965, 1982, 1995, and 2019, but I'm talking about the one from 1995 here; 'Misses' Unlined Vest, Pants and Skirt'), View C, is a mid-nineties princess-seamed six-buttoned waistcoat. How could I not?
Well, maybe because the pattern only goes up to a size 22? Which is a bust of 112cm, waist 94cm, hips 117cm. Which is about 6cm too small, across the board. So I had the bright idea of doing a Full Bust Adjustment with Princess Seams, but instead of reducing the waist again, just keep the extra 6cm width the whole way down on the Side Front piece. The length difference (between the before and after) ended up being 7.5cm, so I split the difference and added 2.5cm length above each of the sets of buttons on the Front piece. Then it was time to make up a toile, and magically the adjustments worked brilliantly. Just needed to shorten/widen a smidge at shoulders and back neckline so it would sit smoothly.
For the garment I used the last of the plain cotton twill, in black, (100% cotton), 240 g/m2, from a shop that just stopped shipping to my entire island with zero notice. (So very much fuck them.) I overlocked / serged all raw edges before I began sewing, and I ignored any and all suggestions to interface.
The pattern is unlined, but there are facings around the neck, armholes, and the entire two overlapping Front pieces. The pattern doesn't call for any understitching, or topstitching. So there's almost no stitching visible on the outside at all. I say nearly, because for the hem I didn't fancy hand-stitching it, so instead I managed my first ever (that I recall) Blind Hem stitch. There are little vertical stitches along the crease line of the hem. But that's it.
I figured since I was learning things I'd look up what they meant by 'catch' stitch. It's better known to me as 'herringbone' stitch. But regardless, I used it to attach the faces to the seam allowances, while watching 'The Omen' (1976). I also added the two snaps and six buttons as per the instructions. But I used giant snaps, almost the same size as the buttons. It was only afterwards that it occurred to me that the snaps weren't needed. If I'd made six buttonholes, instead of three, the waistcoat would button fully, and be sturdier. I mean, sure, if you're making buttonholes by hand cutting your workload by half is a great idea. But in this time of machine buttonholes, why bother with the snaps and merely decorative buttons? I might rectify this at some point.
Otherwise, I feel this fabric is too crisp for this design. If I'm not wearing exactly the right underwear the displacement of mass is obvious. But otherwise it's an absolute gem of a piece. The urge to make one in purple satin is very strong.
Well, maybe because the pattern only goes up to a size 22? Which is a bust of 112cm, waist 94cm, hips 117cm. Which is about 6cm too small, across the board. So I had the bright idea of doing a Full Bust Adjustment with Princess Seams, but instead of reducing the waist again, just keep the extra 6cm width the whole way down on the Side Front piece. The length difference (between the before and after) ended up being 7.5cm, so I split the difference and added 2.5cm length above each of the sets of buttons on the Front piece. Then it was time to make up a toile, and magically the adjustments worked brilliantly. Just needed to shorten/widen a smidge at shoulders and back neckline so it would sit smoothly.
Side-Front and Front pattern pieces after the FBA
Photo by chebe
For the garment I used the last of the plain cotton twill, in black, (100% cotton), 240 g/m2, from a shop that just stopped shipping to my entire island with zero notice. (So very much fuck them.) I overlocked / serged all raw edges before I began sewing, and I ignored any and all suggestions to interface.
The pattern is unlined, but there are facings around the neck, armholes, and the entire two overlapping Front pieces. The pattern doesn't call for any understitching, or topstitching. So there's almost no stitching visible on the outside at all. I say nearly, because for the hem I didn't fancy hand-stitching it, so instead I managed my first ever (that I recall) Blind Hem stitch. There are little vertical stitches along the crease line of the hem. But that's it.
I figured since I was learning things I'd look up what they meant by 'catch' stitch. It's better known to me as 'herringbone' stitch. But regardless, I used it to attach the faces to the seam allowances, while watching 'The Omen' (1976). I also added the two snaps and six buttons as per the instructions. But I used giant snaps, almost the same size as the buttons. It was only afterwards that it occurred to me that the snaps weren't needed. If I'd made six buttonholes, instead of three, the waistcoat would button fully, and be sturdier. I mean, sure, if you're making buttonholes by hand cutting your workload by half is a great idea. But in this time of machine buttonholes, why bother with the snaps and merely decorative buttons? I might rectify this at some point.
Otherwise, I feel this fabric is too crisp for this design. If I'm not wearing exactly the right underwear the displacement of mass is obvious. But otherwise it's an absolute gem of a piece. The urge to make one in purple satin is very strong.
McCall's 7952 (1995) View C waistcoat, finished, back view
Photo by chebe
McCall's 7952 (1995) View C waistcoat, finished, front view
Photo by chebe
