Seamwork Christina skirt
2024-May-08, Wednesday 12:00 pm![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
chebeSeamwork's Christina is that wardrobe staple; the pencil skirt. This one is a little different with a curved hem, faced back split, and invisible centre-back zip. The Bonus pattern is a more conventional pencil skirt, with pockets. I took the side pockets and added them to the base skirt. This is a non-stretch woven, close-fitting skirt. So first things first.
I made a toile. (Without the pockets.) In mid-weight cotton calico. And it's a damn good thing I did. I started with a base size 18. (This is an earlier pattern, so there's no separate Curvy range.) I agonised over the pull lines and how the side seams were sitting for a long time. Instead of sizing up I decided I needed to lose width. The changes I made, in order are as follows;
For the fashion fabric I ordered a black stretch denim, which turned out to be not the greatest quality, lightweight, have very little stretch, and is actually very very dark blue. Other supplies included black fusible interfacing (for the waistband), black thread, a black invisible zipper, and a silver hook and eye (not called for in the pattern, but you know how I feel about invisible zippers by now).
The side seam pocket instructions are confusing. I had to go off script to get something that worked. I didn't have nearly as much trouble with the Tania culottes. Other people have commented that the welt pockets (that I didn't include) were similarly unwieldy. I'm chalking it up to this being an earlier pattern.
Good news is I'm getting better at invisible zippers! My current process is;
- Stitch the seam below the zipper.
- Baste the seam where the zipper will go, press, remove basting.
- Open the invisible zipper, and iron each side.
- Line up the teeth to fold line, pin.
- Stitch with metal concealed zipper foot, getting as close to the teeth as you can.
- Repeat with other side.
- Close zip, press.
I used the 'Ditch Quilting' (S) foot (possibly for the first time) to stitch-in-the-ditch along the waistband. It's very helpful, but the results were not perfect, and I hand stitched the missed sections.
I also used the 'Blind Stitch' (G) foot again to stitch the hem facings to the skirt instead of hand sewing them. The stitching is visible on the outside, and because I extended the back hem facing to not be visible from the front the back has 'stylistic' diagonals over the bottom third. And finally I machine tacked the top of the split, because I lack trust.
I adore wearing this skirt. It is so effortlessly comfortable, which for a woven pencil skirt is saying a lot. The waistband doesn't dig in when I sit. The pockets are large enough to hold my phone, and my chonky wallet. It lets me forget about what I'm wearing (my highest praise for clothing). But, there are visible stress marks already, at top and bottom of the pockets openings, and at the base of the zipper. The fabric is pulling in a way that leaves/exposes the white (elastane?) fibres which is what's making it noticeable. I need to reinforce those areas next time. And yes, I think there will be a next time. (Though I may play around with the hemline.)
The pattern
I made a toile. (Without the pockets.) In mid-weight cotton calico. And it's a damn good thing I did. I started with a base size 18. (This is an earlier pattern, so there's no separate Curvy range.) I agonised over the pull lines and how the side seams were sitting for a long time. Instead of sizing up I decided I needed to lose width. The changes I made, in order are as follows;
- From 'B - Front Skirt', I eliminated the darts (which gave me an additional 2cms each, 4cms total), then removed 3cm from the centre-front fold (for a total of -6cms width).
- From 'A - Front Waistband', removed 1cm front the centre- fold (for a total of -2cms width).
- Removed 4cm length from 'B - Front Skirt' and 'E - Back Skirt'.
- From 'C - Front Facing', removed 3cm from the centre-front fold (for a total of -6cms width).
- For 'F - Back Facing', I didn't like how the facing was visible from the front, so I filled it in/extended it upwards.
- And in preparation, I took the 'I - Side Seam Pocket' from the Bonus pattern, and enlarged the pocket by 1.5cms around the curved edge.
Construction
For the fashion fabric I ordered a black stretch denim, which turned out to be not the greatest quality, lightweight, have very little stretch, and is actually very very dark blue. Other supplies included black fusible interfacing (for the waistband), black thread, a black invisible zipper, and a silver hook and eye (not called for in the pattern, but you know how I feel about invisible zippers by now).
The side seam pocket instructions are confusing. I had to go off script to get something that worked. I didn't have nearly as much trouble with the Tania culottes. Other people have commented that the welt pockets (that I didn't include) were similarly unwieldy. I'm chalking it up to this being an earlier pattern.
Good news is I'm getting better at invisible zippers! My current process is;
- Stitch the seam below the zipper.
- Baste the seam where the zipper will go, press, remove basting.
- Open the invisible zipper, and iron each side.
- Line up the teeth to fold line, pin.
- Stitch with metal concealed zipper foot, getting as close to the teeth as you can.
- Repeat with other side.
- Close zip, press.
I used the 'Ditch Quilting' (S) foot (possibly for the first time) to stitch-in-the-ditch along the waistband. It's very helpful, but the results were not perfect, and I hand stitched the missed sections.
I also used the 'Blind Stitch' (G) foot again to stitch the hem facings to the skirt instead of hand sewing them. The stitching is visible on the outside, and because I extended the back hem facing to not be visible from the front the back has 'stylistic' diagonals over the bottom third. And finally I machine tacked the top of the split, because I lack trust.
Result
I adore wearing this skirt. It is so effortlessly comfortable, which for a woven pencil skirt is saying a lot. The waistband doesn't dig in when I sit. The pockets are large enough to hold my phone, and my chonky wallet. It lets me forget about what I'm wearing (my highest praise for clothing). But, there are visible stress marks already, at top and bottom of the pockets openings, and at the base of the zipper. The fabric is pulling in a way that leaves/exposes the white (elastane?) fibres which is what's making it noticeable. I need to reinforce those areas next time. And yes, I think there will be a next time. (Though I may play around with the hemline.)
Seamwork's Christina straight skirt, fitted, finished, back view
Photo by chebe
Seamwork's Christina straight skirt, fitted, finished, front view
Photo by chebe
