Seamwork Mel joggers, v.4
2024-Sep-25, Wednesday 12:00 am![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png)
A while back I had an idea; "Very late pandemic meets teetering on the edge of another world war, and leaving the house is increasingly difficult." Which translates to a combat/cargo trousers amount of pockets, a punky/gothy number of superfluous bondage straps, but make it pandemic formal.
Which, in this case, means Seamwork's Mel joggers. I'm using the same size 18 (curvy) with adjustments as v.3. But I'm self-drafting patch pockets and flaps; two front, two back. The top of the pockets are twice-turned and straight stitched. The other edges are overlocked, folded once, pressed, then stitched with two rows (not twin-needled) of straight stitching. (I chose the positions by putting on v.3 and just seeing where they were most comfortable.) The flaps are two rectangles, slightly wider than the matching pocket, sewn right sides together, turned right side out, and top-stitched. The top edge is overlocked, folded once, pressed, then stitched with two rows of straight stitching, just above the patch pockets.
The main fabric is black Brushed French Terry, 95% cotton 5% Elastane, 250gsm (15% width-wise stretch, 30% length-wise stretch). Which is a lighter weight than I'd expected. It's almost impossible to notice but, pleased with my Leges, I used black knit cuff ribbing, 95% cotton 5% spandex, 285gsm, for the waistband and cuffs. Then, for the straps I'm using cotton webbing, 25mm, in black, with lobster clasps, 25mm, in black, and d-rings, 25mm, in black, as the hardware. With waistband elastic, and black thread, to finish out the supplies.
I added short loops of the webbing to each of the d-rings, stitched them closed. Then inserted them between the two layers of the pocket flaps, and between the legs and waistband, when sewing those steps. I roughly draped webbing while wearing the joggers to see what length of straps look good, cut to those lengths, then sewed to the lobster clasps; overlocked the ends, once-turned, threaded through the clasps, and then stitched down with two lines of straight stitching. On each end of each strap. (I believe I used straight stitch everywhere, except the waistband where I used narrow zigzag. The top stitching on the slash pockets is a single line of straight stitch, not double needled as per instructions. As well as some machine tacking at the corners of the slash pockets.)
These are the same size as v.3, but much more comfortable because the fabrics have more stretch built in. I guestimated the waistband elastic, but gave myself too much, which means the waistband is a bit loose. Which is fine for lounging, but with the weight from the hardware I might find myself actually using the drawstring channel at some point. They don't look great on the hanger, but when hanging from my curves they look really quite good. These are utterly amazing. Sub-culture fashion, without sacrificing comfort. Even the weight and jangle of them is comforting. And they look more put together than standard joggers. I adore them, and can see myself making more in the future. (If there is one.)
Which, in this case, means Seamwork's Mel joggers. I'm using the same size 18 (curvy) with adjustments as v.3. But I'm self-drafting patch pockets and flaps; two front, two back. The top of the pockets are twice-turned and straight stitched. The other edges are overlocked, folded once, pressed, then stitched with two rows (not twin-needled) of straight stitching. (I chose the positions by putting on v.3 and just seeing where they were most comfortable.) The flaps are two rectangles, slightly wider than the matching pocket, sewn right sides together, turned right side out, and top-stitched. The top edge is overlocked, folded once, pressed, then stitched with two rows of straight stitching, just above the patch pockets.
The main fabric is black Brushed French Terry, 95% cotton 5% Elastane, 250gsm (15% width-wise stretch, 30% length-wise stretch). Which is a lighter weight than I'd expected. It's almost impossible to notice but, pleased with my Leges, I used black knit cuff ribbing, 95% cotton 5% spandex, 285gsm, for the waistband and cuffs. Then, for the straps I'm using cotton webbing, 25mm, in black, with lobster clasps, 25mm, in black, and d-rings, 25mm, in black, as the hardware. With waistband elastic, and black thread, to finish out the supplies.
I added short loops of the webbing to each of the d-rings, stitched them closed. Then inserted them between the two layers of the pocket flaps, and between the legs and waistband, when sewing those steps. I roughly draped webbing while wearing the joggers to see what length of straps look good, cut to those lengths, then sewed to the lobster clasps; overlocked the ends, once-turned, threaded through the clasps, and then stitched down with two lines of straight stitching. On each end of each strap. (I believe I used straight stitch everywhere, except the waistband where I used narrow zigzag. The top stitching on the slash pockets is a single line of straight stitch, not double needled as per instructions. As well as some machine tacking at the corners of the slash pockets.)
These are the same size as v.3, but much more comfortable because the fabrics have more stretch built in. I guestimated the waistband elastic, but gave myself too much, which means the waistband is a bit loose. Which is fine for lounging, but with the weight from the hardware I might find myself actually using the drawstring channel at some point. They don't look great on the hanger, but when hanging from my curves they look really quite good. These are utterly amazing. Sub-culture fashion, without sacrificing comfort. Even the weight and jangle of them is comforting. And they look more put together than standard joggers. I adore them, and can see myself making more in the future. (If there is one.)
Finished Mel joggers, back view
Photo by chebe
Finished Mel joggers, front view
Photo by chebe