chebe: (gerties sew-along 2010)
[personal profile] chebe
After posting in the Flickr group I received a comment that confirmed what I'd suspected, but had been willing to over-look in the name of an easier life. Namely, that the front waist darts were too much to the side. Here, this is the bodice, worn inside-out so you can see the seams more clearly.

Front, inside

Side seams, inside

See the bunching of the extra fabric under the bust? For sure I will need to widen my darts to take in some of that (as seen here).

In the right picture, see the way the two red seams/darts are pointing to the yellow cross? That cross marks the apex. I got it simply by drawing two lines, from the centre of each of the darts, until they intersected. The white chalk mark is about where my actual apex is. See how the waist dart points nowhere near it? Damn, that means it has to be moved.

At this point it's certain that there are a few changes that need to be made. In order to protect the original pattern from the tearing that will undoubtedly happen I've traced off the piece onto basic tracing paper. First I mark in the real apex, then I start trying out different kinds of darts.

Trace pattern piece, mark apex

Adjust dart

Finding that mess of pencil marks hard to makes sense of? Yeah, I should have used different colours. But I'm nice, so I've superimposed a stroked path over the line I'm referring to.

Original dart, see how it points at the old apex

New dart, parallel with original, under new apex

How did I move the dart? I just took a gridded (to make my life easier) ruler, and lined up the centre line of the original dart along a grid-mark, and drew a parallel line that matched up with the new apex point. Now my new centre-line is marked, I lined up the original pattern piece under the traced one, and traced the outline. (The edge of the dart will need to be trued, as in this post.) Okay, dart moved. Next.

New dart, shortened, made ~3" wide

Too wide, horrible fold of fabric above dart

Because everyone was doing it I lowered my dart by about half-an-inch. I tried on the bodice, and marked where my underbust was (something like two-inches below), marked this is as the horizontal line. I then pinched out the excess and measured half of it, about one-and-a-half-inches, this is the width of half the horizontal line. Then it's a case of joining-the-dots, down to where the moved dart finished; giving you the pink line.

This is it tried on. Too much fabric eaten up by the dart (see the folds and strain marks of the fabric?), and there's a horrible dimple/fold above the top of the dart. First things first, let's try a slightly narrower dart.

Not as wide as the previous one, ~2" wide

Better, still horrible fold of fabric above dart

I took half-an-inch off each side of the dart, making it about 2" wide. Redrawn, gives you the green line. Tried on, good, not as pulled, and fold above dart not as bad. The original dart didn't have this problem, maybe shortening it wasn't a good idea?

Taller, same height as original dart

Better again, still that fold of fabric

Okay, being taller has reduced the fold of fabric to a long dimple. Improved, but still not great. Maybe the problem is that too much fabric is being compressed at the same time? The original dart had a much gentler slope at the end. Let's try using the original darts final approach.

As narrow as the original dart at the tip

Fold minimal

About a quarter-inch from the tip join the original darts lines. Rejoin the other dots, gives you red line. Yes! Okay, fold of fabric above dart almost completely gone. But, what's with that red stitching I can see at the underbust? Angle is probably too sharp, I'll try redrawing the lines as a curve.

Same as last, except lines curved

Looking good. Still not perfect

That's a much better looking tummy!

Yep, that's looking a whole lot better! There is still a little extra fabric at the tip of the dart. I haven't pressed these darts, so hopefully it's something that will just go away when I do. I have asked in the Flickr group though, in case there's something I'm missing.

It is a little tight looking across the belly. But it's not actually tight. Hopefully the weight of the skirt will help balance that out.

So, yeah, there will be one more mock-up post. I'm going to wait a little while and see if there's any comments in Flickr, then I'll try the size 12 skirt on for size. By measurements I should be a size 16, but by measurements my waist should have been a size 14/16 too. Plus, it's a wrap skirt, so it will have lots of extra ease/fabric in the skirt as part of the style. This doesn't suit my shape, tending to make me look larger, so anything I can do to minimise the volume is a bonus. It was a bit of work, but the difference a simple dart made to the fit makes me glad I bothered.

Date: 2011-01-09 05:22 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile]
Very cool, and well done! I look forward to all your now-expert advice when I begin my own struggle with darts :o)
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