McCall's 7952 (1995) Vest (aka Waistcoat), v.2
2024-Apr-24, Wednesday 03:15 pm![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
chebeRemember that McCall's 7952 (1995) princess-seamed waistcoat I made last time? I wore it a bit and came up with some changes I'd like to try.
Firstly, there were a couple of changes to the fit. I started with the same size 22 with a full-bust-adjustment that I drafted last time, but I eliminated the top 2.5cm section I'd added, which meant redrafting 10 - Vest Front, 2 - Side Front, and facing. And I lowered the centre front neckline to just above the middle button, changing this to a four button waistcoat.
Secondly, the cotton twill is much too crisp, so I wanted a fabric with more drape. What I really wanted was a black velvet, but no-one had it, so I settled for a black crushed velvet, 100% polyester. (Mistake.)
Crushed velvet has a very pronounced pile. I made triple sure that I cut all the pieces in the same direction. I interfaced as instructed. And I ended up serging all the raw edges before construction. (This was a great idea, as the seams really need to be finished separately and pressed open to maintain shape.)
I pinned all the seams, and then hand tacked all the seams, before machine sewing. I used a walking foot, and used a narrow zig-zag/lightning stitch. But still every seam creeped and moved. This whole thing was an exercise in self punishment. The only saving grace was how well the fabric responds to heat. I pressed all the seams open, multiple times, to tame this mess. I put four button-holes in the front, did not use any snaps, and machine blind-hemmed the back hem to finish.
You can see, especially from the back, that this fabric is too soft for the style, trying to do its own thing between the stitching and not holding the shape of the panels. It is, thankfully, better when worn, with the body to fill it out. I think the fit and style changes are okay, but ultimately this is the wrong fabric for this style of garment. I think I've also put the buttons in the wrong place, and that the facings could be stitched down more securely. But I'm still not sure how I feel about this waistcoat.
Firstly, there were a couple of changes to the fit. I started with the same size 22 with a full-bust-adjustment that I drafted last time, but I eliminated the top 2.5cm section I'd added, which meant redrafting 10 - Vest Front, 2 - Side Front, and facing. And I lowered the centre front neckline to just above the middle button, changing this to a four button waistcoat.
Secondly, the cotton twill is much too crisp, so I wanted a fabric with more drape. What I really wanted was a black velvet, but no-one had it, so I settled for a black crushed velvet, 100% polyester. (Mistake.)
Crushed velvet has a very pronounced pile. I made triple sure that I cut all the pieces in the same direction. I interfaced as instructed. And I ended up serging all the raw edges before construction. (This was a great idea, as the seams really need to be finished separately and pressed open to maintain shape.)
I pinned all the seams, and then hand tacked all the seams, before machine sewing. I used a walking foot, and used a narrow zig-zag/lightning stitch. But still every seam creeped and moved. This whole thing was an exercise in self punishment. The only saving grace was how well the fabric responds to heat. I pressed all the seams open, multiple times, to tame this mess. I put four button-holes in the front, did not use any snaps, and machine blind-hemmed the back hem to finish.
You can see, especially from the back, that this fabric is too soft for the style, trying to do its own thing between the stitching and not holding the shape of the panels. It is, thankfully, better when worn, with the body to fill it out. I think the fit and style changes are okay, but ultimately this is the wrong fabric for this style of garment. I think I've also put the buttons in the wrong place, and that the facings could be stitched down more securely. But I'm still not sure how I feel about this waistcoat.
McCall's 7952 (1995) View C - altered - waistcoat, finished, back view
Photo by chebe
McCall's 7952 (1995) View C - altered - waistcoat, finished, front view
Photo by chebe
