McCall's M8479 (2024), view b, v.2
2025-May-21, Wednesday 12:00 am![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
chebeMcCall's M8479, woven short skirt pattern with faux-wrap options. I previously made the 'base' skirt, without any of the wrap options; v.1. Now it's time to wrap.
Pattern wise, it's mostly the same as v.1, but with different pocket options, and the addition of the pleated wrap section, with matching waistband and tie-tab.
Fit wise, it's mostly the same as v.1, but last time I lengthened the centre-back by +5cm. I'm reducing that by 2cm, so still +3cm on the original pattern length. But then I added +9cm to all the main skirt pieces; front, back, and wrap. Slashing and spreading along that a-line.
Fabric wise, it's also mostly the same as v.1, but I dyed the fabric black first, using Dylon fabric dye for (front loading) machine use, in Intense Black. I had thought this was a linen blend, but it dyed so uniformly, and deeply, that it's is either pure linen, or a blend of natural fibres.
The notions then are;
- black thread
- 2x 1.5"/40mm/4cm d-rings, in gunmetal (which is larger than typically available)
- 1x 0.75"/2cm button, black
- 1x >5"/13cm metal trouser zipper, in black
- interfacing
I took extra pains when cutting out the fabric, and especially the interfacing, to not mess up the asymmetrical waistband like last time. I got close a few times, but eventually prevailed! So now I can say I've done my first successful fly zip.
Making sure to do things properly, this skirt took a while. I did a lot of marking, and pinning, and pressing, and basting. And pockets take more time than they should. The back pockets are top-stitched patch pockets with flaps, fairly straight forward. But the front pocket was new to me. It has a gusset around the sides, for added volume. And it's supposed to be stitched at the top edges, and centre bottom, to control the volume. But my fabric (and untrimmed seam allowances) was too thick for that, so I had to improvise a closure. With a clip buckle, and some webbing.
Extra notions required;
- 1x 1" clip buckle, in black plastic
- cotton webbing, 25mm, in black
I did machine the buttonhole, and stitched-in-the-ditch for the waistband (without missing any sections). But I hand felled (almost properly) the entire hem, and the facing on the wrap piece. (And the lower part of the webbing on the front pocket, because angles.) Because I added the extra length I was able to turn up the proper seam allowance this time.
I am very pleased with this skirt. It has quite a few details and feels like an achievement. It is very heavy, and the interfacing I used was very stiff, which contributes to the utili-kilt vibe. I'm actually itching to patch it, but resisting until I have at least one other solid black skirt. We need staples after all.
Pattern wise, it's mostly the same as v.1, but with different pocket options, and the addition of the pleated wrap section, with matching waistband and tie-tab.
Fit wise, it's mostly the same as v.1, but last time I lengthened the centre-back by +5cm. I'm reducing that by 2cm, so still +3cm on the original pattern length. But then I added +9cm to all the main skirt pieces; front, back, and wrap. Slashing and spreading along that a-line.
Fabric wise, it's also mostly the same as v.1, but I dyed the fabric black first, using Dylon fabric dye for (front loading) machine use, in Intense Black. I had thought this was a linen blend, but it dyed so uniformly, and deeply, that it's is either pure linen, or a blend of natural fibres.
The notions then are;
- black thread
- 2x 1.5"/40mm/4cm d-rings, in gunmetal (which is larger than typically available)
- 1x 0.75"/2cm button, black
- 1x >5"/13cm metal trouser zipper, in black
- interfacing
I took extra pains when cutting out the fabric, and especially the interfacing, to not mess up the asymmetrical waistband like last time. I got close a few times, but eventually prevailed! So now I can say I've done my first successful fly zip.
Making sure to do things properly, this skirt took a while. I did a lot of marking, and pinning, and pressing, and basting. And pockets take more time than they should. The back pockets are top-stitched patch pockets with flaps, fairly straight forward. But the front pocket was new to me. It has a gusset around the sides, for added volume. And it's supposed to be stitched at the top edges, and centre bottom, to control the volume. But my fabric (and untrimmed seam allowances) was too thick for that, so I had to improvise a closure. With a clip buckle, and some webbing.
Extra notions required;
- 1x 1" clip buckle, in black plastic
- cotton webbing, 25mm, in black
I did machine the buttonhole, and stitched-in-the-ditch for the waistband (without missing any sections). But I hand felled (almost properly) the entire hem, and the facing on the wrap piece. (And the lower part of the webbing on the front pocket, because angles.) Because I added the extra length I was able to turn up the proper seam allowance this time.
I am very pleased with this skirt. It has quite a few details and feels like an achievement. It is very heavy, and the interfacing I used was very stiff, which contributes to the utili-kilt vibe. I'm actually itching to patch it, but resisting until I have at least one other solid black skirt. We need staples after all.
McCall's M8479, view b, finished, back view
Photo by chebe
McCall's M8479, view b, finished, front view with wrap open
Photo by chebe
McCall's M8479, view b, finished, front view with wrap closed
Photo by chebe
