Hello readers! Last time I got my Adafruit HalloWing badge working with the SD Card Shield under Arduino. But that's a lot of naked electronics to have dangling around my neck. Let's make a case for it!

Someone already remixed the Hallowing badge case to fit a battery, so I had a go at remixing it further. I brought the model into Windows 3D Builder, cut, and extruded the depth of the case to 2cm. Which it turns out fits everything nicely! Except, the SD card is a bit squished against the edge of the case (you might need to put the SD card in after fitting the badge into the case). If I do this again next time I'd widen that bottom opening just a smidgen.

ExpandSlight complication )


HolloWing badge wearing 3D printed case, with lanyard attached. Regular front view, badge displaying my mastodon account avatar and details (@chebe@choas.social).

Finished badge case
Photo by [personal profile] chebe

I had recently setup a Plex server on a Raspberry Pi 4 (Model B - 4GB RAM). It was working well, but the disparity in the weight of the small Pi, and that of the SSD drive, not to mention the surprisingly stiff cables, meant it would go flying all over the place. So when I saw the cool case in the Pi SSD Media Server tutorial I knew I was going to give it a go.

Well reader, this is a great project, I love the results, but straight up, I haven't encountered this many 'mistakes'/omissions in an Adafruit tutorial before. Never fear, for here is my 'study' guide, born of my suffering, so you don't have to.

ExpandDetails )


Fully assembled case, mainly black with green side panels and handle, showing the display, displaying the following details of the Raspberry Pi inside; plexpi. IP: 192.168.0.158. CPU: 35.0'C. Mem: 113/3787 MB 2.98%.

Pi case, build complete, powered up and display displaying info
Photo by [personal profile] chebe

I 3D printed a turntable

2022-Nov-02, Wednesday 01:20 pm
This project was absolutely an exercise in persistence.

I had previously restored my parents' old turntable, but the plastic hinges on the lid were broken, which made it awkward to use long term. Even the stereo system in that post got shuffled around and packed away in the shed as not-strictly-necessary.

Fast-forward a few years into a more dystopian future and an ongoing pandemic, and we find me, spending a lot of time at home, looking for projects to distract myself. I had recently gotten a 3D printer for the first time, and I came across a kickstarter for the SongBird turntable kit. They would supply the hardware, electronics, acrylic, and 3D models, which you then print yourself at home. This seemed ideal to me, because if anything ever broke I would (or at least should) be able to replace just that part easily. I backed it in May.

The kickstarter campaign fulfilment was a bit delayed (by the creators catching covid), but not for long as all the parts went up on MyMiniFactory in October, followed by a few updates (that resulted in a naming schema I could not follow). I read the instructions, and decided to not make things difficult for myself and to simply use PETG like they do. I'd never used PETG before, so I did a bit of research and ordered some filament (ROSA3D PETG Standard Light Green and ROSA3D PETG Standard Black) and a Spring Steel Sheet applied PEI Flex Plate for my printer. They arrive, and I print out all the parts before the end of the year.

ExpandParts list )

But we all know a turntable cannot be used on its own, it needs speakers, and a preamp, so I have to dig out, and clean up, my old stereo system and preamp. I found my old Cambridge Audio 640P preamp, and couldn't find the power plug. So I order a replacement. All this takes a while. June rolls around and I, at least, finally get all the parts assembled into a turntable!




All parts assembled
Photo by [personal profile] chebe



I also needed furniture to fit the stereo into my office, which had to be found, ordered, stained, and assembled. Which required rearranging other things, changing power strip layouts, and then I get covid. This takes a while.

In the instructions they say we need a 'Rega Baerwald alignment protractor V2', and they provide a link to a forum, that is shutting down leaving the file inaccessible. I bought an alignment protractor, but I'm glad backers are sharing copies of the file in the comments now (not least because the place I got my alignment protractor no longer seems to be stocking them).

I finally get enough energy to do the rearranging and I realise I do not have two sets of phono-to-phono cables, and that I really need two sets of phono-to-phono cables. I also find out that I have to order them, because nowhere locally physically stocks them?!

Everything arrives, and I'm setting it all up, going through the fiddly calibration guide, and, it's not working. I get the multimeter out and take the turntable apart. But everything seems okay. I try the stereo system AUX with a portable CD player, and that's working. I even test the brand new cables. That leaves the preamp. The power light comes on, but there's no sound coming through. So I order a replacement, the Behringer PP400 Phono Preamp that they mention in the instructions. Which means I can also print the preamp mount part (pa1mk3-1), to tuck the preamp under the metal arm.

Printed in black;
- pa1mk3-1, at fast quality (3 hours), doesn't look great, but does the job. (Slicer also complained model had problems that it repaired.)

A month later the new preamp arrives, which I attach with two M3 x 5mm screws, and I wire everything up. Finally I can listen to some vinyl.

ExpandPictures )




Close up of needle, just because
Photo by [personal profile] chebe







Clip of turntable in action
Video by [personal profile] chebe

This started with a simple idea; I would like to be able to monitor my 3D prints from a different room. While I was having this thought Zack Freedman made a video, and things spiralled from there.

The camera is the Mintion Beagle camera. It is compatible with Marlin 3D printers, that work on baud rate 115200. There is an official compatibility list, which includes future supported models. My Snapmaker 2.0 A250 printer is supported, but its Luban slicer is not (yet).


ExpandCut for lots of media )




Beagle camera stacked and mounted inside the enclosure, just behind the Touchscreen
Photo by [personal profile] chebe






This is the view through the camera as I monitor in-progress prints
Video by [personal profile] chebe

I picked up some Rainbow silk PLA filament. How could I not? This was my first time printing with silk PLA, and first time using a rainbow filament. To try out the effect I picked some larger pieces to print; headphones stands. Perhaps a bit of a spoiler, but I think the promotional shots are misleading. The colours change very very slowly.

First I grabbed this wavy headphone stand. It prints flat, in two pieces. That wouldn't show off the filament changing colour best, so I rotated the model to print from bottom up. I figured the gentle curves would be okay, but was worried the two overhangs at the top (supporting the headphones band) would fail, so I edited them out with Windows 3D Builder, before importing into my slicer and printing (zero supports).

This is the raw print, with zero tidy-up. The silk really makes every imperfection stand out. The under-side of the arches are a little noodly, but can be cleaned up easily. You can just about make out a colour gradient, rather than colour change, through the height. But it does its headphones job nicely.

ExpandWavy headphones stand )

Okay, so didn't really manage to get a nice colour change effect there, let's try again, but with a model that uses even more filament! Enter the Stylish headphones stand. No modifications, just printed straight up (zero supports).

Again this is the raw print, with zero tidy-up. The circular/cylindrical stand really shows off the silk PLA to good effect. The underside of the arch is a tiny bit noodly, but again can be cleaned up easily. And finally, just at the very top, we do get to see the filament change colour! That was two headphones stands before we got to the first colour transition. Not the impression given in the promotional pictures. But it does do its headphones job nicely.

ExpandStylish headphones stand )
So I'm minding my own (read: entire world's) business on twitter when a tweet by [twitter.com profile] AtelDsign enters my feed. Geometric 3D printed baubles, that are printed on fabric! I had to try them!

ExpandDetails )




All four geometric shape baubles lit up with red LEDs
Photo by [personal profile] chebe

Previously on dreamwidth:chebe we played with setting up Android on a RaspberryPi 3. Which led us to ordering a RaspberryPi 4. Well friends, it arrived. I installed the LineageOS Raspberry Pi 4 port by KonstaKANG, and set up a few things, like the Play store. It worked beautifully. We're not talking lightning fast speeds, but. it. works. So now to make it usable.

ExpandThe screen and case )

ExpandThe stand and arrangement )




My Android control console
Photo by [personal profile] chebe

Filament spool holder

2021-May-19, Wednesday 06:32 pm
In search of a better filament holder I'm trying out the TUSH - The Ultimate Spool Holder. Each leg supports one side of the filament spool, prints in two parts, and press-fits around two 608 ball bearings (the kind in skates).

For additional support I printed additional frames (in this case Abstandshalter_Extrudr_1kg_ohne_Schrift_v2). They are supposed to go under the TUSH legs, but I used them as braces on the ends instead, and glued them in place.

ExpandPicture )



TUSH with additional frames glued in place
Photo by [personal profile] chebe

So picture it. (Or simply remember it.) A pandemic has struck, and lockdown implemented. You are now cut off from all your activities, socialising, friends, as they take place an hour's bus ride (or flight) away. The internet is your only connection. You have a desktop computer, but no webcam. And webcams are sold-out everywhere. What do/did you do?

I was quite lucky, in many ways, but specifically here in that a year before the pandemic I had upgraded to a rather fancy digital micro-four-thirds camera. And it just so happened to be one of the few that the camera manufacturer had enabled with not just HDMI output, but clean HDMI output. They posted an article detailing how to steam video with some Olympus cameras. Following the guide I got a HDMI capture device. (Or rather two; I got on a waiting list for the expensive kind, and ordered a UKĀ£10 version from ebay.) And a HDMI-to-micro-HDMI cable.

And for a few video chats my friends had to look at me in 4K. At least for a couple of hours, until the battery died. See the camera can be charged over USB, but not while actually in use. And the manufacturer does not sell a mains adapter for my model of camera. So I ended up buying the first webcam that came into stock.

Several months go by and I have acquired a 3D printer. I am browsing the internet for things I can do with a 3D printer and I find an article on camera tools which has some cool things, but as I browse the wider 3D printed camera stuff category I come across the concept of printing dummy batteries, to be able to use any size battery with your camera. I even found one for my exact battery, in the Olympus OM-D BLS-50 Dummy Battery. The instructions on assembly are on the original model. But my experience was not as smooth as that.

ExpandProcess )

This project has made me see the full potential of 3D printing. We're not just making our own pet projects. We can build things to add functionality that is not available at any price to the things we already own. And propagate it to the entire world. Okay, I get it now.

Piano LED Visualizer

2021-Apr-21, Wednesday 06:30 pm
Every so often I take a fancy to the idea of taking up the piano again. I was going through one of these spells when I came across this project, the Piano LED Visualizer. How could I not give it a go?

I ordered the suggested Waveshare LCD TFT 1.44" 128x128px, WS2812B LED Strip (144 per metre), 5V 6A power supply, silica tube strip in T0515 for 12mm in 2m length, and iConnectivity mio midi-to-usb cable. (I had a cable already, but thought it wasn't working. Turns out the port labels on my piano are backwards. (If I keep writing it everywhere maybe I'll actually remember next time.)) I already had the Raspberry Pi Zero, and miscellaneous components. As well as a digital piano. Time to get soldering.

I know the instructions say there's no need to solder, but I did anyway. I used a Pico hat hacker board and soldered the connections on to it. The idea is to wire up the power between the LEDs and Pi as in this article. Checking the pinout that looks like Data out on pin 12, and I used pin 34 for common ground. Then soldered a few connectors/adapters, before seating the Waveshare on top, installing the software, etc.

At this point it all works, but it's a loose bundle of components, so let's make that case. The instructions really gloss over this part. The case is this model, but it's based off this original case for PinkyPi. Which is where I found the guide that finally told me I needed M2.5 screws, standoffs, and nuts to assemble everything together. (The direction pad button is wonderful, but the other ones did not work for me at all. At least I can still reach the buttons through the opening in the case.)

I also ordered the midi usb-to-usb adapter needed to try the Synthesia feature, but haven't had a chance to try it out (due to a major mix up in shipping, that the seller was great at getting sorted out, but it took a while).

Overall the LEDs lighting up next to the key you pressed is neat. And you can set the LEDs to play animations if you just want background lighting, say for a video chat. But the LEDs don't line up well. I don't know if it's just because I got a cheap set of LEDs, but they are off at each edge of the keyboard by a couple of keys. Overall this feels like an early version project, but all the important parts are there. Including the software which is fairly solid. And it's very fun to play with.

ExpandPhotos )



Piano LED Visualizer in rainbow demo pattern
Photo by [personal profile] chebe