I made a watch. Because of course I did. Same wrist-strap and general idea as the LilyPad and Protoboard Wrist Controller. But the protoboard is populated with a Real Time Clock (RTC) module, and four-digit seven-segment display.

I'm using the SparkFun DeadOn RTC module. I got it for another project and just happened to have it laying around. You can get others that use fewer pins though, like I used in the clock. (DeadOn RTC setup guide). Downsides include not being able to find the right sized battery. (I had to go to Belgium for it, and it still hasn't arrived.) Upsides include the module having two alarms. One to the second, the other to the minute.

If I have alarms I'm going to need an alert, so throw in a LilyPad Buzzer (as in speaker) (Buzzer setup guide), and a SPDT slide switch to put it into silent mode. And if it's on silent I'm going to want a vibrate option, so add a LilyPad Vibe Board. This is the Vibe Board setup guide, but I'm doing things a bit differently. I'm not using a MOSFET, and I connected - to GND, and + to PWM pin 6. It works just fine.

To see the time I'll need a nice display like Adafruit 4-Digit 7-Segment Display with I2C Backpack (Display Backpack library setup), and a nice Metal Ball Tactile Button to turn it on and off.

Then I just have to figure out how to connect everything together, and program it.

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Then just turn everything on! There is quite a lot you can do with this kind of completely hackable setup. As it is you can use the alerts to train yourself to have a better understanding of time. Just by having it vibrate on the hour every hour. You could make it a countdown timer so you can remind yourself to stop talking. Or any arbitrary period to remind yourself to take breaks. You could use some of the empty pins and add a motion sensor. Then you can keep track of your activity and if you don't move around enough each hour you can alert yourself. You can tailor everything to yourself exactly. But, as a reminder, do not get this wet. If you really want to use this as an activity tracker you'd be better off minimising it and adding a skin-safe water/sweat-proof enclosure. But for general time related body hacking this is a decent start.



LilyPad watch assembled and operational
Photo by [personal profile] chebe



I find myself wanting to use the same hardware controls in different projects again and again. But in various configurations. Can I make something modular, that I can reuse as needed?

Let's take the Colour Stealing circuit, actually let's take the version with a microphone.

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Here's the whole system; wrist controller connected to power regulation and signal level shifter board and NeoPixel matrix. For the longer runs of wire I'm using thicker silicone wire that I have loosely plaited.

Overall it has the same problem as watches, in that the heavier section has a habit of shifting around, but if it annoys too much I suppose I could always stick it in place. The nice thing is that it all disassembles cleanly, making everything (not soldered to the protoboard) reusable.



Wrist Controller in the middle of it all
Photo by [personal profile] chebe



RGB Colour-Mixing Hat

2019-Jan-16, Wednesday 10:00 pm
A long time ago I acquired a hat. Some time after that, still a long time ago, I added a blue LED strip to the band. Later again I replaced the silver ribbon with a black ribbon, removed the original hat band (cutting the glue off the hat), hot-glued a felt pocket to the inside to hold the battery, and cut a slit so the wires could pass through.

But single colour LEDs? Running off a 9 volt battery? Not good enough nowadays. Enamoured with potentiometers of late, I got the idea of doing a red-green-blue plus brightness mixing board. (Bonus points for not using radio, meaning it would remain functional at maker/hacker meetups where radio frequencies are often saturated.) I found myself in Makevember so I did up a quick breadboard prototype.

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But once I had that done I wanted to add extra modes, controllable by pressing the push button a number of times. The first one I added was Rainbow Cycle (I'm using the Adafruit Neopixel library rather than FastLED here).



Rainbow pattern
Photo by [personal profile] chebe



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Parts;
Hat
Adafruit Mini Skinny NeoPixel Digital RGB LED Strip, 60 LED/m
Adafruit Flora
Bakelite Perfboard
Potentiometers
10K ohm resistor
Momentary push button
Headers
Various jump leads
LiPo battery
Somehow, while making my Colour Stealing Skirt, I got the idea that I would like a headpiece to go with it. I mean, it's for EMFcamp, so go big or stay home, right? (Not at all, but I wanted to so I made excuses.) I wandered down a path of cybergoth falls for a little, but wanted something a bit more cyberpunk, and what is more punk than outrageous mohawks? But I don't have a 3D printer, or laser cutter, or CNC. How was I going to get something strong enough to stand upright, but translucent enough to light up nicely? I had an idea in my head of circles, inspired by CDs and hair rollers, but nothing else. So I took myself on a tour of hardware shops and wandered aimlessly. Eventually I found these. They come in different diameters and different heights, but these seemed just right for me.



Plastic furniture leg/wheel coasters, or floor protectors
Photo by [personal profile] chebe



Next step; how do I affix these plastic circles to my head? I wandered around youtube until I found people who use garden wire (for trailing vines and such) to make frames for costume headpieces. The idea is to shape a double-sided U-shape (one for each side of the head) out of the wire. You make the join with duct tape. I added extra supports to the top, by bending the ends to sit along existing wires, and duct tape them together.



Wire frame base
Photo by [personal profile] chebe



Then I continued in the same way down the back of my head. Aiming for a secure fit. I also wrapped the wire with ribbon (secured with super glue), not just to make it nicer, but because the duct tape glue was coming undone and the ribbon keeps pressure on all the joins.

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Wear
Photo by Jeffrey_Roe



Parts;
Galvanised Coated Garden Wire, 2mm / 12 Gauge / 5/64"
Ribbon
62mm plastic furniture leg/wheel coasters (floor protectors)
Organza scraps
Wide crinoline tubing

Potentiometer
Adafruit Flora
Adafruit Neopixel strand
3-pin JST SM Plug + Receptacle Cable Set
Adafruit Colour Sensor
LilyPad Button Board
SparkFun Microphone
I've had an idea for an elaborate electronic skirt for, literally, years now. And no matter how long I waited progress just wasn't being made. At one point I realised that EMFcamp was fast approaching and I needed something for it. So I scaled back my ambitions, found a white tulle/net skirt on sale, and got to work.

I had a few Neopixel strands laying about the house, and found to my surprise that each 20 pixel (2" pitch) strand was almost exactly the width of my skirt. Two strands would completely encircle it. Rather convenient. And I wanted to be able to set the colour of the Neopixels from things around me, so I needed a colour sensor. I also wanted a potentiometer so I could adjust the brightness depending on ambient light, and would need a button to change between modes. Oh, and a microcontroller to make it all work. Which gave me this circuit.

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But white is very much not my aesthetic. Which is a large part of why I made this an underskirt. You can use this one underskirt with a variety of overskirts to achieve different effects. Here I've used a black crushed velvet skirt with uneven hem so that some of the glowing tulle/net still peeks out. In dark enough environments, there is a side benefit of seeming to exist in a puddle of light on the ground. (Which can be handy when trying to navigate a campsite.) Overall this skirt is fun, but not the most practical. Though I do foresee it coming in handy from time to time.



Skirt
Photo by [personal profile] chebe



Parts;
Fabric scraps
Petticoat
Skirt

Potentiometer
Adafruit Flora
Adafruit Neopixel strands
3-pin JST SM Plug + Receptacle Cable Set
Adafruit Colour Sensor
LilyPad Button Board

Momentary button setup

2011-Feb-17, Thursday 03:34 pm
More for myself than anyone else, I often have trouble remembering how to set-up my 4-leg momentary buttons, so I'm making this reminder.

The button has four legs, two pairs of two essentially. The pairs have the flat ends facing each other, like brackets; { }. These pairs are connected when the button is not pressed, and current can be measured across them. When the button is pressed it switches (no pun intended) to flow from one of each pair, to its opposite counterpart. So really, only need to use two of the legs (one of each pair).

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