Busy hands | Disquiet mind

I have tried self-drafting basic blocks a few times before. Unfortunately I have not yet found any instructions that actually work for my body proportions. I have, however, gotten fairly competent at altering existing patterns. So how about I try that route instead?

Gertie's Ultimate Dress Book is a course in book form, about learning how to fit the basic blocks of dress patterns (from woven fabrics), and then mix-n-matching for near endless possible combinations. The Floral Day Dress project is the most basic there is; basic bodice, a-line skirt, no sleeves, all-in-one facing. The prefect place to start.

( Details )

V-neck bodice with a-line peplum, finished, front view
Photo by chebe

My second project from Gertie Sews Vintage Casual is the 40s Style Shirt. What I like about this book is that for many of the projects variations are given. For instance, this sleeveless version. You are told to add 3" to the hem front and back, and add a fifth button. There are two tucks on both the front and back. You are instructed to turn them into double-ended darts. I did this for the back, and simply left the front tuck- and dart-less. (Except for the the two front shoulder darts.) The patch pocket is left off. As are the sleeves and cuffs. Instead you finish the arms with bias tape.

My fabric is cream with a yellow, green, and blue floral pattern, in 100% non-stretch cotton. I made bias tape from the same fabric. I again got to play with my overedge stitch/foot and buttonhole stitch/foot. The buttons are of a dark blue/navy. The bottom of the side seams are split.

My favourite part was using the bias tape to finish the sleeves. It's so straight forward and neat. One technique I hope to use again. My least favourite part was the very fiddly way the collar and facings were attached. I mean, there was hand-sewing and a tailoring ham. I suppose vintage techniques are part of vintage clothing, but I found it quite frustrating. And I messed up the collar/lapel on the left-hand side because of it. I'm also not sure about the excess fabric on the back above the darts. Is this a vintage feature? Or do I need to elongate my darts? Other than that it's a lovely little pattern, and I'd like to make one in a drapier fabric.

Finished 40s Style Shirt, sleeveless modification, front view
Photo by chebe

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My first project from Gertie's New Book for Better Sewing is the Portrait Blouse. It's also my first woven project in a while.

It involves a lapped zipper, facings, bust darts, and waist tucks (front and back). It also assumes that you know when to finish your seams, so watch out for that. (Especially leaving extra space for the zipper to go in when you trim that seam.) The arms and hem are all narrow turned hems. The facings involve some hand stitching. I used up the last of the Crepe crepe fabric.

Finished Portrait Blouse
Photo by chebe

( Modeled )

With the chalky taste of paracetamol in the back of my throat, there's only a small make this weekend. Or should I say, smalls?

I got a book recently, Knickers!, although 'book' is a bit of an exaggeration. There's a quick intro, and then it's straight in to instructions on how to make six (although three distinct) varieties of knickers. Then in the back there are patterns you need to enlarge 200%, or you can download the fullsize patterns from a website and print them (at 70+ A4 pages). Size charts are in UK dress sizes, not measurements. But otherwise, it is beautifully to-the-point, and very clear.

I used some left-over Fushia jersey, about two metres of black stretch lace, and took on the 'Stretch Knickers' pattern. Start to finish in an hour. I'll definitely be making more.

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I made another bag! The last ones were so small I think I've over-compensated and have gone too much the other way. This one is a laundry bag from a project in 'A Bag for All Reasons'. I deviated a little from the instructions. The two-compartment design wasn't going to suit me; most of my clothing is darks and brights, with a handful of whites/pales/delicates. So I doubled up the internal divider to make a small third section in the middle. For the darks section I chose a black and grey striped fabric, and for the brights a nice colourful printed patchwork fabric. Then at the every end I got lazy, and instead of two parallel lines of stitching 5mm apart I used a twin-needle in one pass. It's mostly straight lines and different sizes of rectangles, which makes the cutting out easier (thank the rotary cutter), but makes the actual sewing rather boring (not even any seam finishes). The end product is approximately 50cm x 60cm, and fully lined. It's quite pretty and ultimately functional, good result!

( Pictures! )