Base layers. Not the cold weather kind, but the kind that protect you from your clothes, and your clothes from you. Made from a, well, slippy-er, fabric, this could be part of a slip. But as it is, it's just a camisole. Perfect for under tops like shirts, where unruly buttons might cause embarrassment. To reduce a certain degree of clinging, and nuisance bodily fluids. And foiling transparency. But not something I would consider wearing on its own.

Details )


Front view of black jersey camisole, with black lace along the edges, and in the straps, hanging from a pale grey hanger against a white wardrobe.

Hush-A-Bye camisole, finished, front view
Photo by [personal profile] chebe

I have tried self-drafting basic blocks a few times before. Unfortunately I have not yet found any instructions that actually work for my body proportions. I have, however, gotten fairly competent at altering existing patterns. So how about I try that route instead?

Gertie's Ultimate Dress Book is a course in book form, about learning how to fit the basic blocks of dress patterns (from woven fabrics), and then mix-n-matching for near endless possible combinations. The Floral Day Dress project is the most basic there is; basic bodice, a-line skirt, no sleeves, all-in-one facing. The prefect place to start.

Details )


Front view of a v-neck sleeveless top with a-line peplum, with armsyce darts, in a mid-grey with white check fabric, hanging from a grey hanger, against a white wardrobe.

V-neck bodice with a-line peplum, finished, front view
Photo by [personal profile] chebe

The Secrets of Sewing Lingerie by Katherine Sheers and Laura Stanford, is lovely little book with a luxurious feel. It goes over the small details often overlooked on how to sew, and decorate, delicate undergarments. To this end it includes a selection of patterns, that come on folded paper, as a pull-out from the book.

Details )


Front view of black jersey vest, with black lace with pale pink detail down the side seams, along all the edges, and in the straps, hanging from a pale grey hanger against a white wardrobe

Hush-A-Bye vest, finished, front view
Photo by [personal profile] chebe

My second project from Gertie Sews Vintage Casual is the 40s Style Shirt. What I like about this book is that for many of the projects variations are given. For instance, this sleeveless version. You are told to add 3" to the hem front and back, and add a fifth button. There are two tucks on both the front and back. You are instructed to turn them into double-ended darts. I did this for the back, and simply left the front tuck- and dart-less. (Except for the the two front shoulder darts.) The patch pocket is left off. As are the sleeves and cuffs. Instead you finish the arms with bias tape.

My fabric is cream with a yellow, green, and blue floral pattern, in 100% non-stretch cotton. I made bias tape from the same fabric. I again got to play with my overedge stitch/foot and buttonhole stitch/foot. The buttons are of a dark blue/navy. The bottom of the side seams are split.

My favourite part was using the bias tape to finish the sleeves. It's so straight forward and neat. One technique I hope to use again. My least favourite part was the very fiddly way the collar and facings were attached. I mean, there was hand-sewing and a tailoring ham. I suppose vintage techniques are part of vintage clothing, but I found it quite frustrating. And I messed up the collar/lapel on the left-hand side because of it. I'm also not sure about the excess fabric on the back above the darts. Is this a vintage feature? Or do I need to elongate my darts? Other than that it's a lovely little pattern, and I'd like to make one in a drapier fabric.



Finished 40s Style Shirt, sleeveless modification, front view
Photo by [personal profile] chebe



Photos )
This Venus Tanga is one of the projects in the Sweet Nothings book. The first project actually. You need to scan a couple of pattern pieces, scale up to 200%, and print.

It is very straight forward; cut two lengths of stretch lace, at an angle to get the v shape. Stitch together. Cut one crotch piece in the lace, and another in a jersey. Stitch on. Add bow, finished. And the result is both pretty and solid.

The crotch looks very small, but seems that that is what is required with this style. I am pleased the crotch is lined, but, the two crotch pieces are initially sewn wrong sides together, leaving raw edges exposed. It really wouldn't take any extra effort to sew the two long edges right sides together, and then turn out to sew the two short edges. And you'd have those seams nicely hidden. I'll make sure to do that myself next time.

Also, you are told to melt the polyester thread to secure. I mean, yeah, sure, but, I think it is the only time any instructions have ever actually instructed me to do that.

photos )
My first project from Gertie's New Book for Better Sewing is the Portrait Blouse. It's also my first woven project in a while.

It involves a lapped zipper, facings, bust darts, and waist tucks (front and back). It also assumes that you know when to finish your seams, so watch out for that. (Especially leaving extra space for the zipper to go in when you trim that seam.) The arms and hem are all narrow turned hems. The facings involve some hand stitching. I used up the last of the Crepe crepe fabric.



Finished Portrait Blouse
Photo by [personal profile] chebe


Modeled )
My first project from Gertie Sews Vintage Casual is the Easy Knit Pencil Skirt. The name says it all really. I made mine in a nice dotted Ponte de Roma knit. Sew it up, wear. The length hits about mid/upper shin/calf, and it is so comfortable to wear, but looks so smart. Will have to make more.

Notes;
The book says to use 30mm elastic, but I couldn't find any anywhere. It's either 25mm or 38mm. I used 25mm, it doesn't seem to affect the outcome.

It also says to use a twin needle to hem. Which seems straight forward, but whether it was the fabric or the machine, this just refused to work for me. Used a stretch/lightning stitch instead.



Finished Easy Knit Pencil Skirt
Photo by [personal profile] chebe

With the chalky taste of paracetamol in the back of my throat, there's only a small make this weekend. Or should I say, smalls?

I got a book recently, Knickers!, although 'book' is a bit of an exaggeration. There's a quick intro, and then it's straight in to instructions on how to make six (although three distinct) varieties of knickers. Then in the back there are patterns you need to enlarge 200%, or you can download the fullsize patterns from a website and print them (at 70+ A4 pages). Size charts are in UK dress sizes, not measurements. But otherwise, it is beautifully to-the-point, and very clear.

I used some left-over Fushia jersey, about two metres of black stretch lace, and took on the 'Stretch Knickers' pattern. Start to finish in an hour. I'll definitely be making more.

Couple of photos )
I am haphazardly working on projects, and have just replaced my soldering iron, so I should have more to show soon. In the meantime I'm occupying myself with little things that I should already know. Like stringing some beads on some string. This is useful knowledge.


The first method to do this is simply wrapping a length of waxed cotton cord around an item (in the middle of the length of cord). Then passing the two tails through a single bead and knotting them so they don't fall back through. It is really simple, and works well. Except that the cord needs to be long enough to go over your head. And the bead needs to have a wide enough hole to fit the two widths of cord.

Rainbow titanium doughnut on black waxed cotton cord, secured with small silver tone bead

Simple single bead necklace fastening
Photo by chebe



To get a shorter necklace the length needs to be adjustable (or to open). Doing this is also really simple, once you've done it once. Take a length of cord in a circle, overlap the ends. Place one of the ends under the cord parallel to it, and then do an overhand (aka regular) knot to itself. Repeat for other tail. (Try it, it makes sense once you see it.) Now it can be long enough to go over your head, and tight enough for a choker style necklace. (And you can use thick nylon cord without having to worry about fitting through any beads.)

Copper medallion on a double-overhand knotted black nylon cord

Adjustable double-overhand necklace fastening
Medallion by Coral Mallow
Photo by chebe



Next I have to acquire some crimp beads, spiral clasps, and other such fun findings. At least now I can wear my pretties.

Laundry Bag

2012-Dec-17, Monday 02:17 pm
I made another bag! The last ones were so small I think I've over-compensated and have gone too much the other way. This one is a laundry bag from a project in 'A Bag for All Reasons'. I deviated a little from the instructions. The two-compartment design wasn't going to suit me; most of my clothing is darks and brights, with a handful of whites/pales/delicates. So I doubled up the internal divider to make a small third section in the middle. For the darks section I chose a black and grey striped fabric, and for the brights a nice colourful printed patchwork fabric. Then at the every end I got lazy, and instead of two parallel lines of stitching 5mm apart I used a twin-needle in one pass. It's mostly straight lines and different sizes of rectangles, which makes the cutting out easier (thank the rotary cutter), but makes the actual sewing rather boring (not even any seam finishes). The end product is approximately 50cm x 60cm, and fully lined. It's quite pretty and ultimately functional, good result!

Pictures! )

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